Election

Hello!  Sorry for the delayed update, there are now a bunch of posts in the hopper.  One big event since my last post was the US Presidential Election!  奥巴马 (Obama) won over 麦凯恩 (McCain) to become America’s 总统 (president), and the 民主党 (Democratic party) now outnumbers the members of the 共和党 (Republican party) in America’s 议会 (Congress).  In other words, 在美国议会上, 占多数的是民主党.  It was likely Obama’s message of 变革 (change) which moved a lot of voters.  The race was full of excitement, and Obama ran his 竞选队 (campaign team) well.  We will continue to hear a lot from the new 副总统 (vice-president) 拜凳 (Biden) as well as McCain’s running mate 佩林 (Palin)
奥巴马  ao4ba1ma3- Obama
麦凯恩  mai4kai3en4 - McCain
总统 zong3tong3 - president
民主党 min2zhu3dang3 - Democratic Party
共和党 gong4he2dang3 - Republican Party
议会  yi4hui4 - Congress
占多数 zhan4duo1shu4 - make up the majority (of sth)
变革 bian4ge2 - Change
竞选队 jing4xuan3dui4 - campaign (team)
副总统 fu4zong3tong3 - vice-president
佩林 pei4lin2 - Palin
拜凳 bai4deng1 - Biden

Getting a Job

Hello readers!

As you may or may not know, one of my involvements here in the tumultuous worldwide economy is finding a job here in China- a process known by no other name than 就业 (starting a job).  If you find yourself in a position where you have 失业(lost one’s job/become unemployed), you must work to limit its damage to your 事业 (career).  No matter the case, you may find yourself swimming among your competitors at a 招聘会 (recruiting fair).  If you’re looking for another way to get that job, you may go through a 猎头公司(headhunting firm).  Either way, you’ll want to have plenty of 双语名片 (double-language business cards) so as to make it easy for recruiters to remember your name and get in contact with you.  Be sure to bring a copy or two of your 简历 (resume) to make a strong impression.  Whether your job is 兼职 or   全职(part or full-time), treat this experience seriously.  In some cases where you can’t make any headway through a fair or headhunting firm, you may have to write a 求职信.  It wouldn’t hurt to get a 推荐信 from someone who has worked with you in the past.  No matter what path you choose, be sure to have a 敲门砖 that sets you apart from the rest.

就业jiu4ye4 - starting a job
失业shi1ye4 - unemployed, to lose one’s job
事业shi4ye4 - career
招聘会zhao1pin4hui4 - recruitment/networking fair
猎头公司lie4tou2gong1si1 - headhunting firm
双语shuang1yu3- dual-language
名片ming2pian4 -business card(s)
简历jian3li4 - resume
兼职jian1zhi2 - part-time
全职quan2zhi2 - full-time
求职信qiu2zhi2xin4 - job-seeking letter
推荐信 tui1jian4xin4 - letter of recommendation
敲门砖 qiao1men2zhuan1 - lit .door-knocking stone.  An equivalent to “foot in the door.”

Service Phrases One Is Likely to Encounter Whilst in China

First of all, an apology for the late entry.  I got food poisoning.  Most people are wary of getting food from street vendors, but that doesn’t take street credibility into account.  If people get sick from your food and you’re a vendor on the street, you’ll get run out of dodge before you know it.  On the other hand, a store vendor can’t get chased out of town by the customers.  I guess I can be sure to put more credence in “street credibility” down the line.

Getting to today’s topic, I was once told by a professor that the 3 most common phrases encountered by visitors to China were “不知道“  “没有,”  and “他/她不在,” meaning “I don’t know,” “[I/We/They]don’t have it/there isn’t(aren’t) any,” and “(S)he isn’t here.”  Having been in China for some time now, I have gathered that many service representatives now have added new phrases to the lexicon.  First among these phrases is “这个我不太清楚.”  It’s not saying one doesn’t know and no buck is exactly passed.  On the other hand, the person is still absolving himself/herself of responsibility in case it goes wrong.  In either case, hearing any of these phrases means you’re on a one-way track to not getting a conclusive answer.

Sometimes you’ll get the “不好意思,” and sometimes you’ll get questions delaying whatever it is you need.  On one trip I went on, the people in the group all asked “are we going back to the hotel? have we found a hotel that isn’t booked?”  This was met with the response, “..have you eaten dinner yet?”  This is an effective topic of firmly changing the subject while remaining pleasing.

Another service phrase I have encountered is not exactly a phrase, but rather a tactic.  If you ask for something, someone will repeat the phrase back to you incredulously, as if you’re the one who’s out of line.  If you hop in a cab and say “潮阳门,” the driver will look at you like he’s never even heard of Beijing or China.  I almost developed neuroses thinking that after 8 years of studying Chinese that I couldn’t even pronounce a place name correctly.  I believed this to be true until the time I got in a cab with local friends only to watch the same thing happen.  It is strange, to be sure, but it’s not without its reasons.  Many cab drivers in Beijing do not live there.  Many to most live out in the suburbs such as 顺义 or 通州.  From a less optimistic viewpoint, pretending not to know how to get to a place can lead to a lot of wrong turns and extra driving (did someone say more money for the driver?)

不知道bu4 zhi1dao4 lit. “not know”
没有mei2 you3 - lit. “not have”
他不在ta1 bu4(2 here) zai4 - lit. “he/she/it not in”
这个我不太清楚 zhei4ge4 wo3bu4(2 here)tai4qing1chu3 - “I’m not very clear on this.”
不好意思 bu4hao3yi4si1 - a light form of “sorry”
朝阳门 chao2yang2men2 - part of eastern Beijing, home to Chinese oil companies
顺义 shun4yi4 - suburb NE of Beijing and airport, location of the Shunyi Olympic Rowing-Canoeing Park, location of Olympic Rowing, Canoeing (flatwater and slalom), and Open-water Swimming
通州 tong1zhou1 - suburb directly east of Beijing, many cab drivers live here

Renting in China Part 1

Unless you’ve come to China to 定居(settle down), you’re likely going to be spending money to 租房(rent a house).  Here are some helpful tips to know when you go with a realtor who’s trying to move a property.  If you’re living by yourself, you’ll likely live in an 一居室(single) apartment.  If you’re a fancier type, you’ll find yourself living in a 开间, better known as a studio apartment.  You can save a lot of money by living with a 同屋(roommate), but the drop in privacy can be tough to handle for some.  No matter the place, make sure that the 装修(decoration) meets your requirements, as it will have a large impact on your 月租, or rent.  The size of the apartment will be referred to in 平方米(square meters), or 平米 for short.  Another thing to ask is if the landlord is going to (match) 家具(furniture) and 家电(appliances).   Make sure that you either ask for an English copy or have fully read and understood your 合同(contract) before you 签字(sign your name).

定居ding4ju1 settle down
租房zu1fang2 rent a (house/apt)
居室ju1shi3 _ BR
开间kai1jian1 studio
装修zhuang1xiu1 setup (as in decoration or setup of the place)
同屋tong2wu1 roommate
平方米ping2fang1mi2 sqm
月租yue4zu1 rent
配pei4 provide
家具jia1ju4 furniture
家电jia1dian4 appliances
合同he2tong2 (although some people say he2tong4) contract
签字qian1zi4 sign (a name)

Macau - Lemonade out of Lemons

Whilst in Hong Kong, I went with a friend of mine to 澳门 (Macau). We went to the Sands and Venetian casinos. They had 二十一点(blackjack), 百家乐(baccarat), roulette, and others. I stuck to 二十一点 while my friend played the 老虎机(slots). I changed 500 港币 (hong kong dollars) into 筹码(chips) and hit the table. The lowest bet was 200, so it was very much a sink-or-swim situation. I played by the rules of the house (stand on 17 or higher, hit on 16 or lower) and before I knew it I was holding 1200 in chips. I took 500 in chips and went to 换现金 (convert to cash) so that I’d only be gambling with my earnings. The 700 quickly became 100, so I had to 掏腰包 again and drop another 500HKD. Playing by the same strategy, I got up to 1950HKD and called it a night. I liked winning, and continuing to play just kept the joy alive.  Alas, all good things must come to an end and by the end of the night me and my friend were back in HK.

vocab-

澳门Ao4men2 - macau
二十一点er4shi2yi1dian3 - blackjack
百家乐bai2jia1le4- baccarat
老虎机 lao3(2)hu3ji1 - slot machines
筹码chou2ma3 - gambling chips
港币gang3bi4 - HKD
换huan4 - to change/exchange
现金xian4jin1 - cash
掏腰包tao1yao1bao1 - to pay (colloquial exp.)

Visa Fun!

Greetings readers!

I have just come back from 香港(Hong Kong) because of an issue with my 签证(visa). A multi-entry visa will let you 多次入境, but only for 60 days at a time. I went to the 出入境管理局(border entry-exit administration) at Andingmen, where I found that they could not effectively (extend) my visa because I didn’t have a 住宿证 (or 暂住证, which means temporary residence certificate) nor did I have proof of assets in China.  It’s a simple matter to set up a bank account, but time was running out on my stay and I couldn’t be bothered to do it until I got back.  If you’ve never had to go to a visa office, consider the experience to be something like going to the DMV/RMV. How long you must wait on line is determined by how urgently you must get your task completed. Moreover, you need to provide multiple photos which you take on the second floor but pay for and retrieve on the first floor.   Since my only option was to leave the country and come back, I had to quickly decide between 蒙古(Mongolia- US citizens need a visa), 韩国(Korea - the boat ride from Tianjin takes 20 hours), or 香港 (acceptable price for the plane ticket- plus I could always make the money back at 澳门/Macau, see next entry!) 香港 it was!  Ordered my plane tickets on Friday night and I was out on Saturday morning, free to explore HK/Macau until Tuesday.  It was a remarkable experience being in HK. Being able to speak Mandarin was not the advantage that speaking Cantonese could have been, although I’ll write a little more about that in the Macau entry.

Readers, does it work better for you to have me put the pinyin in the text so that the words become contextualized and you can guess at the meaning or does it work better for me to have the explanations there too?

香港xiang1gang3 - Hong Kong
签证qian1zheng4- visa
多次duo1ci4 - multiple times
入境ru4jing4 - enter the borders
出入chu1ru4 - exit-entry
管理局guan3li3ju2 (note that the tone in guan3 becomes 2 here) - administrative office
延yan2- extend
住宿证zhu4su4zheng4 - residential certificate
暂住证zan4zhu4zheng4 - temporary residence certificate
蒙古Meng2gu3- Mongolia
韩国Han2guo2 - South Korea

When Gift-Giving Goes Awry

The NBA is pretty popular in China, and for good reason.  Fans can watch Yao Ming and Yi Jianlian, the sport itself requires very little equipment, and a lot of people can play at the same time- all strong suits.  Moreover, I’ve heard a couple people say that they listen to NBA announcers to make their English more colloquial.  Suffice it to say that you’ll find many basketball fans in China.

As a born-and-bred Bostonian, I felt it only right to bring some souvenirs celebrating the Celtics’ 2008 NBA Championship victory.  Jerseys were expensive, but hats seemed just right.  I picked up a bunch of Celtics hats and off I went to China.  I had gifts to give, and these hats were perfect.  Well, almost.  On my last day at the hotel where I was staying during the Olympics, I went to get the hats that I had put in the closet.  I took another look at them, and immediately smacked myself in the forehead.  How could I have forgotten this?  Why didn’t this occur to me back in Boston?

Aside from Olympic pins, these hats were going to be given to managers, police officers, and other people who had made the stay a pleasant one.  The problem is, the color of the Boston Celtics is green, and there’s an expression in Chinese - “to wear a green hat” (戴绿帽子) which is not very flattering.  Essentially, “wearing a green hat” means that a man is being cuckolded by his wife, although even an unmarried man would be hesitant to accept the gift himself.  As for the origins of the phrase, some say it started with postal workers (whose hats are all green), while other say that it may have began with military officers.  Whatever the case may be, both professions may be linked with husbands who may not be home for extended periods of time.   As for grammar, to say that a woman cuckolded her husband would be “她使他戴绿帽子了,” (”She caused him to wear a green hat).

Well thankfully, nobody threw the hats back at me.  One of the managers got it for his son whose peers are probably too young to know the phrase.  One of the hats went to a female manager who won’t have any problem wearing it, and yet another went to a Korean friend who will have no problem wearing the thing.  As for the others, suffice it to say I have a pile of green hats sitting in my closet in Beijing.  So- anybody want one?

Overcoming the Language Barrier: Chinese Hip Hop

In the 1990s, two cultures crossed paths as they travelled to opposite ends of the earth. In 1993, specifically, nine rappers from New York would release their first album, launching their careers as one of the most commercially successful and critically acclaimed hip hop groups of all time. The Wu Tang Clan (named after the mountain Wu Dang in central China) were heavily influenced by Chinese culture and martial arts mythology, giving them a style and a sound which infiltrated popular culture through music, films, and fashion for many years to come.

At roughly the same time, hip hop was leaving American shores and making its way to mainland China. Although hip hop in China began to manifest itself during the early ‘80s, it was almost purely an imitation of the US import, with artists rapping in English rather than in their own languages. This began to change with the arrivals of American hip hop connoisseurs like Kyle Ching an  Dana Burton, whose influence helped Chinese artists to adapt and create a style of their own.

Rhythm & Rhyme

As hip hop began to creep its way into microphones across China, the rapping was mostly done in English. For a long time it was believed that Chinese wasn’t a suitable language to rap with, using drastically sentence structuring and rhythm patterns quite different from English, with the main obstacle being that Chinese is a tonal language, where words change meaning according to the pitch used for each syllable. [view video]

But according to Detroit-native Dana Burton, the one responsible for bringing rap-battling overseas and who is now considered the godfather of hip hop in China, this is no longer the case:

“I’ve actually come to like these Chinese battles more than the stuff going on at home in America. It’s a totally different direction they’re taking it, with the rhyming skills and the wordplay and how they perform. The energy level is much more intense with Chinese rap. There are more theatrics. The flow is faster. They’re rhyming words at a faster pace. And they’re starting now to use rhythm a bit more.”
Shanghai Rap Battle - Iron Mic Semifinals 2007 [view video]:

For the love of the music

The fledgling hip hop scene in China resembles the pre-bling golden era of its American counterpart. With fewer radio stations than the US and even fewer who are willing to play anything other than pop and rock, there simply aren’t millions of dollars to be made as a Chinese hip hop artist. As a result you won’t hear rappers bragging about their pimped out rides, their diamond-studded gold chains or their bottles of Crystal, because they just don’t have all the materialistic stuff associated with American hip hop these days. Instead you’ll hear from people who love the music without the fame and fortune, and you’ll hear the type of hip hop that used to exist when the streets influenced the rappers and not the other way around.

Polite Hip Hop

As is the nature of most Chinese art, Chinese hip hop is a reflection of their culture, as opposed to the western obsession with the self. Often referred to as “polite hip hop,” Chinese artists are more prone to rap about the monotonies of everyday life, love, and even food. It’s extremely rare to hear profane lyrics about drugs, violence, and racial oppression. Then again, theirs is not a musical genre that was forged in the fires of systematic and institutional racism, broken homes, drug-infested neighborhoods, a lack of well paying jobs, police misconduct, and inadequate educational facilities in the same way American hip hop was born. [view video]

The following song is rapped using a dialect from the province of Sichuan [view video]:

Here’s a sample of the lyrics translated to English:

You do not have real ability, why must you be a singer?
You think you sing something and you think you are smart.
With the spotlight on the stage, you go mad and you are taken bad
I say dude, you should consider others’ mood
Facing your fans, you should be honest and conscientious
Do not stay there wordily
Those children are simple
To be an idol, you need to control your words and actions
You do not have the real strength/ability, do not come out to show off
Do not be too arrogant, do not use abusive words to insult others’ mothers
In conclusion, do not pretend to be famous, do not show your authority, do not be huffish
Do not think you are a star or feel you have some international reputation, even if your pictures are on global section of entertainment magazines
You need to change, change, change, but must not be conscienceless
Do not lose the face of Chinese (do not let others feel ashamed of Chinese because of your behaviours)
Do not think you are somebody because you have some powerful backers

While the song shares the American rap tradition of “dissing” another MC, the lyrics emphasize respect for the music and the fans. The song promotes improvement as a person and as an artist, and is less interested in hurling nasty, violent insults at one another. Chinese hip hop is often accused of being weak and soft and too polite. This is naturally a western point of view, coming from people who don’t understand that politeness, respect, patience, and love, constitute many of the foundations of Chinese art and culture.

Olympic Lockdown

Olympic Lockdown

July 20th marked the start of Beijing in Olympic Lockdown Mode. For approximately the next two months, the city will turn blue in the face while attempting to hold in its proverbial gut while showcasing itself to the world as a sleek, modern, clean, and efficient capital city ready to assume its place among the world’s great powers. If all goes according to plan, the air will be clean, the traffic negotiable, athletes will make their venues on time without gridlock, there will be no protests or demonstrations, undesirable elements will be keep out of the city, tourists will gasp in wonder from hotels without vacancies at the architectural marvels of the new city, and all will be green and harmonious. That, at least, is the idea. And the restrictions and bureaucratic hurdles imposed by the city with their all-or-nothing plan are what will make it all possible. Here I’ll address two Au Yun Hui problems and their “solutions” as dealt with by the powers that be.

Item number one on the list, a two part quandary: improve air quality from pea-soup pollution (wuran) levels to something close to breathable, and reduce traffic (duche) from snarled congestion to somewhat tolerable.

Solution:

  • Highly polluting factories in Beijing were forced to shut down earlier this month, while cement and steel plants and chemical factories in the surrounding provinces have been told to scale back production some 30% by July 20th.
  • Antiquated heavy industrial trucks (some dating back to the ‘60’s and ‘70’s) which could otherwise only ply the roads at night were banned from entering Beijing on the 1st of July.
  • All construction projects in the city (which kick up incredible amounts of dust in addition to other undesirables) were halted on the 20th. Several new billion dollar lines on the city’s metro system were opened on the 20th to help ease the burden on the public transport system.
  • Depending on odd and even license plate numbers, half the cars (not including taxis) are banned each day from the city’s roads, with a fine of ¥100 fine imposed for violations.
  • An Olympic lane on the major thoroughfares will allow official Olympic vehicles to bypass regular traffic, allowing athletes to make their game times but cutting down available lanes for other traffic by 1/3 or ½, depending on the road.

Item number two: Keep out undesirables and ensure a safe Olympics.

Solution:

  • A crackdown on visas for foreigners ensuring that those already in the country legitimately must jump through diplomatic hoops to remain with no guarantee that they will be able to do so.
  • Security checkpoints set up on roads leading into the city with police boarding buses and inspecting private vehicles entering Beijing and performing metal and ID checks on both Chinese and foreigners, with special emphasis on ethnic Tibetans and Uighers (profilingwhat?) who might, theoretically, have something of an agenda to pursue in Beijing.
  • A battery of surface-to-air missiles set up not far from the “bird’s nest” National Stadium.
  • One particularly irritating measure for local students has all universities (including my own ) closed to everyone but students and employees of those universities. Gone be the days of riding through BLCU for a car-free shortcut to the Wudaokou subway station.

The measures taken have inspired some to warn of a “Fortress Beijing” mentality overtaking the host city which could prove to be security overkill. Furthermore, in addition to the installation of some 265,000 security cameras (Da Ge is watching), restrictions on foreign media have ensured that should anything “embarrassing” occur, the only people who will cover it will be Beijing friendly or censored. While I try to avoid touching on political issues here, Op-Ed pieces like this one in the Washington Post complaining of heavy-handedness and stage management on the part of the central government are hard to argue with.

And indeed, stage management has been the operative phrase for this coming Olympic Games. The environmental cover-up (it is nothing less) may prove successful but when the Olympics are come and gone, factories will once again kick into overdrive, cars will return in swarms to the streets. Significant protests may be avoided, but in the end, domestic grievances will remain unsolved. And while the whole country holds its breath for two months, perhaps the happiest people will be found after the Games have passed and millions of Beijingers will breathe a sigh of relief that they can finally return to life as normal, sans ma fan.

Words to Know

Àoyùnhuì Olympic Games 奥运会

Wūrǎn Pollution 污染

Dǔchē Traffic Jam 堵车

Wǔdàokǒ (Area in Haidian District, Beijing) 五道口

Dàgē Big Brother 大哥

Màfàn Hassle, troublesome, bother 麻烦

The Gypsy Road

Following an extended hiatus exploring the geopolitics and security status of China’s energy sector at the end of the Chinese academic year, your gallant correspondent has returned once again to fire away at the idiosyncrasies of life in Beijing and Greater China as a whole. Today, a commentary on the gypsy trail of Chengfu Lu and Yiheyuan Dong Lu, the path pedaled by tens of thousands of denizens of the Beijing “suburbs” (as they are called by the locals) to and from the impromptu sidewalk farmers markets that dot the city’s secondary roads, hutongs and side streets.

Every morning that I wake up to mount my black and rusty Flying Pigeon bicycle and qi on down to old Bei Da has its moment of dreadful apprehension, as I know that outside in the morning humidity and heat awaits a blaring ocean of traffic: cars, buses and trucks, klaxons wailing, barely moving in one lane, while in the other, a flood of electric bikes, motorcycles, Forevers, Giants, and Pigeons fighting for space and jockeying for position behind the Hummers of the Beijing bike scene - the flatbed-pickup style grown-man’s tricycle loaded high with produce, products, office furniture, recyclable plastic vegetable oil containers, or whatever else the nongmin have decided to pile 15 feet high back there. And as often as not, the driver of said oversized man’s tricycle isn’t a man, but a woman, just as rough, just as red-faced and dark from the sun as the rest of pedaling hordes. With automobiles accelerating and bumper kissing on the one side and the masses of riders pedaling along and looking for an opportunity to pass on the other, to get stuck behind one of the nongmin’s pickup truck bikes is the Chinese biker equivalent of being stuck behind a semi on a one-lane highway in the U.S.: it stinks. Yet there’s not much that can be done about it except wait for the opportunity to pass, thumb working the little bike bell just in case the person in front of you wasn’t aware of the throngs behind them.
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