Posts tagged with "Russian food"

Cook This Russian Dish Tonight

Posted by yelena 4 Comments
Nov 23 2011

If you ever want to read a passionate account of «русская кухня» [Russian cuisine] minus the recipes, I highly recommend «Русская кухня в изгнании» [Russian Cuisine in Exile] by «Пётр Вайль и Александр Генис» [Pyotr Vail and Alexander Genis].

This is not a cookbook, but rather a collection of essays «в жанре лирической культурологии» [in the “lyrical culturology” genre]. By the way, the term “lyrical culturlogy” is not my coinage, but how Alexander Genis describes his work.

Unfortunately, the book has not been translated into English. But the Russian language copy is available in both hard-cover «подарочное издание» [deluxe edition] and online through «онлайн библиотеки» [online libraries] such as erLib.com (if you are concerned with copyright issues, erLib mentions that books they host are made available through publisher’s agreement).

So, this book, in chapter 31 (these are short chapters), mentions a dish that makes many Russians sigh wistfully, their eyes glazed over and their minds turned away from the affairs at hand and towards the next meal. And I’m talking about both men and women.

What is this «загадочное блюдо» [mysterious dish] that Vail and Genis call «предел кулинарной фантазии, соединённой с опытом» [the yardstick of culinary fantasy, combined with experience]?

Don’t worry, it doesn’t call for «экзотические ингредиенты» [exotic ingredients]. I bet you have «все необходимые продукты» [all the necessary food items] «под рукой» [handy]. Nor will you need special «кухонная утварь» [kitchen utensils] for it, unless you don’t have «сковорода» [a skillet] and «лопаточка» [spatula].

And don’t you feel intimidated either. As the same “Russian Cuisine in Exile” says the dish requires «99% труда и 1% таланта» [99% work and 1% talent].

You’ve probably guessed it by now. If not, the dish is a humble «жареная картошка» [fried potatoes].  But don’t get it confused with «картошка фри» [French fries]. It is nothing on the kind as you will soon find out. If anything, it’s closer to what here, in the US, is called “home fries”.

There are some crucial differences, however. First one is in how you slice the potatoes. Instead of chopping it into cubes, you need to «нарезать картошку соломкой» [cut potatoes into strips] as if for French fries. Then wash it to get rid of as much «крахмал» [starch] as possible, then dry well with a towel.

Next, heat some «растительное масло» [vegetable oil] in a skillet. One table spoon for each potato should be enough. Now, if you want your potatoes to be as authentically Russian as possible, use «подсолнечное масло» [sunflower oil]. If you are not a vegetarian and don’t stay away from pork, you can even use «сало» [lard].

Once the oil is heated, add potatoes to it and cover with the lid. Remove the lid only to stir the potatoes. You have to stir «часто, но нежно» [often, but gently].

Midway through the process, «картошку следует посолить» [you must add salt to potatoes]. Then «снять крышку» [remove the lid] or the potatoes will be soft, not crispy.

So far so good, but how is this different from home fries? Ok, a couple of minutes before you turn the heat off, add «мелко- нарубленный чеснок» [finely chopped garlic] and lots of «укроп» [dill]. As with so many other Russian dishes, this one can be served with «сметана» [sour cream]. If sour cream is not your thing, it’s perfect without it. Just don’t eat it with «кетчуп» [ketchup]!

If you have some extra time and some «лук и грибы» [onions and mushrooms], you can make this already delicious dish even better. Before you start on potatoes, fry chopped onions and mushrooms until onions are caramelized and mushrooms give off all the liquid. Add onions and mushrooms to the dish right before adding garlic and dill. Sure, it takes a bit extra time, but the result is «пальчики оближешь!» [finger-licking good!]

This can be served on its own. But if you want to go all out, make sure there’s some «чёрный хлеб» [dark Russian bread] and «копчёная рыба» [smoked fish] on the plate.

If your mouth is not watering by now, the only reason is that you just ate a plateful of «жареная картошка» [fried potatoes].

Soup And Salad All In One

Posted by yelena 4 Comments
Jul 21 2011

This summer’s «жара» [heat] and «засуха» [drought] are set to beat all sorts of records. While the «пессимист» [pessimist] in me frets over «мой огород» [my vegetable patch] and the «оптимист» [optimist] in me cheers that «вода в бассейне будет ещё теплее» [water in the pool will get even warmer], my inner «реалист» [realist] marches off to the kitchen «готовить ужин» [to cook supper].

Can you think about «включать плиту» [turning a stove on] or «нагревать духовку» [preheat an oven] in this weather? I certainly can’t! So instead I opt for «рецепты, не требующие варки, жарки и запекания» [recipes that do not require boiling, frying or baking].

Except that «моя сильная половина» [lit. the strong half of my family; a husband] prefers something more substantial than «салатик» [salad] every night. It’s that and the Russian love of «суп» [soup].

I’m not sure about «молодое поколение» [young generation] of Russians, but middle-aged and older Russians of «старой закалки» [old school] don’t call it a good dinner or supper unless there’s «тарелка супа на столе» [a bowl of soup on a table]. Eating «первое» [first course] is important «для пищеварения» [for digestion].

So for the time being, while the daytime temperatures don’t go below «плюс тридцать пять по Цельсию» [+ 35 degrees Celsius; that’s 95°F], supper at my house is «на первое – суп, второго нет, а на третье – мороженое» [soup as the first course; nothing for the main course and ice-cream for dessert].

This reminds me of «анекдот» [a joke] about «похудение и диеты» [weight loss and dieting]: «Я села сразу на 3 диеты потому, что на одной не наедаюсь» [I’m on three diets at once because being on just one leaves me hungry].

«Так о чём это я?» [So what am I talking about here?] «Продолжая разговор о еде» [continuing on the subject of food], have you ever thought of combining soup and salad in one bowl?

It might sound strange, but keep in mind that Russian salads are different from what you might be used to. To begin with, there are lots of different «мелко нарезанные овощи» [finely chopped vegetables]. Then there are ingredients that are not found in a typical “garden” salad, such as «яйца» [eggs], «солёные огурцы» [pickles], «сосиски» [hot dogs], all finely chopped. Third difference is in «зелень» [fresh herbs] used liberally, especially «зелёный лук» [scallions], «укроп» [fresh dill], and «петрушка» [parsley].

So if you take all these ingredients, mix them together, add some «соль и перец» [salt and pepper], but skip dressing, you get a quick «гуща для супа» [the thick of a soup]. As for «жидкость» [liquid], also referred to conversationally as «юшка», you can use good-quality «квас» [kvass], «кефир» [kefir] or «холодный свёкольный отвар» [cold beetroot broth]. Now it doesn’t sound so bad, does it?

Now you have not one, but three soups. They have different names depending on what liquid you use. If it’s «квас» you add, then you have «окрошка». If instead you use beet broth, then you’ve got «свёкольник». And if you opt for «кефир» or a mix of plain yogurt and water, you’ll have «кефирная окрошка» and not «кефирник», which is a type of pastry.

I was going to provide a recipe for this soup, but NPR (National Public Radio) beat me to it. They have a whole article about Russian summer recipes on their site.

Do you think you’ll be trying either of these soups? What is your favorite summertime recipe?

Tea in Russia is More Than Just Tea

Posted by yelena 24 Comments
Jun 27 2011

I spent at least an hour looking for a perfect image for this post. And then I realized, that this painting of a merchant’s wife by Boris Kustodiev was just what I needed.

If you meet and befriend a Russian, at some point you will be invited over to his or her place. Such invitation won’t be anything formal. Your friend might say «будешь рядом, заходи в гости» [when you are in the area, do stop by] or «приходи, чайку попьём» [come over for some tea] or «будет время, забегай» [stop by when you have time]. The implication of such casualness is that «вам всегда рады» [you are always welcome].

Russians are very «радушные хозяева» [genial hosts] and generally meet their guests «с распростёртыми объятиями» [with arms wide open], yet they also have a saying «незваный гость хуже татарина» [an uninvited guest is worse than a Tartar]. Nowadays this means that you a) avoid «напрашиваться в гости» [solicit an invite] and b) no matter how casually the invite is worded, you need to call before stopping by.

An invite «на чашку чая» [for a cup of tea] might sound simple and straightforward, but the actual «чаепитие» [tea drinking] rarely is. Here’s what you might expect:

As a guest, you don’t have much to worry about. After calling ahead to confirm, you just need to stop by «кондитерская» [a confectionery shop] to pick up «что-то к чаю» [little something to go with tea]. This can be «тортик» [a small cake], «печенье» [cookies], «пирожные» [pastry], «пряники» [Russian gingerbread cookies] or a box of «зефир» [Russian-style marshmallows] or «шоколадные конфеты» [chocolate candy].

Once you arrive you must change from «уличная обувь» [street shoes] into «тапочки» [house slippers] in the hallway. The hostess will apologize for «беспорядок» [the mess] even though she «прибрала перед приходом» [tidied up right before your arrival] and everything looks «чисто и уютно» [clean and cozy].

Then the best part of your visit begins. You are shown into a kitchen. «Кухня» [kitchen] in Russia is not just a humble utilitarian «помещение» [room] for turning raw ingredients into delicious meals. «Кухня» is a place to entertain guests, but only the dear ones, the ones that are «друзья» [friends], not mere «знакомые» [acquaintances].

Here, in the kitchen, you will be offered a meal. So what that the original invite was only for a cup of tea or coffee. Show me a Russian who serves you just tea or just coffee and I will tell you that they’ve lived in the West for far too long.

If you think that I «преувеличиваю» [am exaggerating], I assure you I am not. «Любая уважающая себя хозяйка» [Every self-respecting hostess] has a few favorite «рецепты быстрой выпечки к чаю» [quick tea-time recipes] ready. Just the other day I was invited to a friend’s house. I was running a bit late which gave her enough time to bake not one, but two desserts, slice a giant watermelon, and assemble a few «бутерброды» [sandwiches].

It is your duty as a guest to try at least a little bit of everything your hostess serves you. Remember, no matter how much you eat, your hostess will likely admonish you to eat more by suggesting «попробуй вот это» [try this] or «возьми еще кусочек» [take another small piece]. The only good way I found around this is to respond with «Последний кусочек. Очень вкусно, но я пытаюсь поддерживать диету» [This is the last bite. It’s delicious, but I am trying to stick to a diet].

Yet the best part of such invitation is neither food nor drink, but conversation. It is entirely in the Russian style of «кухонные разговоры» [kitchen discussions] – meandering from «глобальное» [global] to «очень личное» [very personal]. Such «посиделки» [get-togethers] can go on for as long as there’s hot tea in «чайник» [a tea-kettle].

The atmosphere is usually so genial and warm that getting up to leave might require considerable effort. That’s why you might want to precede any excuse with «к сожалению» [regretfully] as in

«К сожалению, завтра рано на работу» [Regretfully, I must go to work early tomorrow].

«К сожалению, пора. Завтра улетаем на отдых, а чемоданы еще не сложены» [Regretfully, we are going on vacation tomorrow and haven’t packed the bags yet].

What is your favorite «еда к чаю» [tea-time food]?

What’s a Russian Picnic Without Kebabs?

Posted by yelena 18 Comments
Jun 16 2011

What is one summer must-do thing that is «романтично» [romantic], hot, takes place «на природе» [out in nature, outdoors] and can’t be done «без мужчин» [without men]? It is, of course, «шашлыки» [shish-kebabs] – favorite past-time for the short Russian summer.

If there were a single maxim about «шашлык», it would be «шашлык это не еда, а времяпрепровождение» [shish-kebab is not food, but a pastime]. In Russia, shish-kebab making is nothing short of an elaborate «церемония» [ceremony] with various «правила» [rules] and «традиции» [traditions].

Three things make Russian shish-kebab one of the most looked-forward to events of summer – «костёр» [fire], «хорошая компания» [good company] and «правильно приготовленное мясо» [properly prepared meat]. Notice that «водка» [vodka] is not on the list. Not to say it is not there. It’s just not the central point of «шашлыки» unlike another outdoors pastime – «рыбалка» [fishing].

So let’s examine all the ingredients of a successful «поездка на шашлыки» [a shish-kebab outing]. First of all, note that this is a strictly outdoors experience. The location should be scenic, but fairly close to home so that raw meat doesn’t spoil while being transported to the location.

Beach setting is ideal as long as we’re talking about a narrow beach backed by a dense tree line. «Лесная поляна» [a glade, a clearing in the forest] is the second best option. If neither is available, «дача» [a summer house with a garden] can be used. However, if all you have is an exquisitely landscaped backyard or a public park «со всеми удобствами» [with all the conveniences], you are better off grilling some hamburgers and calling it a day. A certain level of «простоты» [simplicity] of setting is required for this experience.

Once the location is chosen, it’s time for guys to buy meat. In general, provisioning for the shish-kebabs is handled by men and women take care of the side-dishes only. Now, Internet is full of «рецепты» [recipes] for «экзотические шашлыки» [exotic shish-kebabs] – «куриные» [chicken], «рыбные» [fish] and even «вегетарианские» [vegetarian]. But most kebabs use good old «мясо» [meat].

This meat has to be «замариновано» [marinated], typically overnight. There is no single way to prepare the marinade. Many guys claim that they have their own «секретный рецепт маринада» [secret marinade recipe], but in fact much of it is done from whatever sounds and smells good and proportions are determined «на глазок» [by eye].

A simple and «провереный временем» [time-tested] way is to layer meat with thick-sliced rings of onion and sprinkle salt and pepper and just a little bit of white vinegar between the layers. Or you can get fancy and add crushed «чеснок» [garlic], «свежие душистые травки» [fresh culinary herbs] and «вино» [wine] to the mix.

But honestly, marinade is not as important as «костёр» [fire], another thing that men take care of. To listen to men discuss the relative merits of different types of «древесина» [wood] in terms of «жар» [heat] and «аромат» [fragrance], you’d think they are experienced firefighters who moonlight as sommeliers.

Once the fire is started, either in a fire pit or on «мангал» [grill], «дрова» [firewood] must burn through to hot embers. It is above these «горячие угли» [hot embers] that shish-kebabs are roasted, never above the flames.

While «дрова прогорают» [firewood burns to embers], it’s time «нанизывать шашлыки на шампуры» [to place kebabs on the skewers]. The word «шашлык» comes from a Tartar word for a pike or a spit. Unlike flimsy American skewers, Russian «шампуры» [skewers] are long heavy and flat metal spikes that even look like Medieval weapons.

Marinated meat is skewered on along with some of the onion rings from the marinade and some fresh tomatoes. Then skewers are placed about 2 inches above hot embers and turned occasionally until ready.

Only once kebabs are done and served can the drinking really begin (although the first shot of vodka is frequently drunk right after «прибытие на место» [arrival at the picnic place]. But again, the point of «шашлыки» is neither drinking, nor eating.

The point is «получать удовольствие от хорошей компании» [to enjoy a good company]. This means some good old «пение» [singing], ideally accompanied by a guitar. It also means lots and lots of talking – «анекдоты, сплетни, политика и так далее» [anecdotes, rumors, politics and such]. Finally, «шашлыки» as an event «тянутся до поздней ночи» [extend late into the night] even after all the food has been eaten.

Have you tried Russian «шашлыки»? If not, you still have time before the weekend to pull it together.

Moscow, Again, or What Is It That Flows Together?

Posted by yelena 10 Comments
May 18 2011

Alexandr Pushkin, that most famous of the Russian poets, wrote

«Москва… как много в этом звуке

Для сердца русского слилось!»

[Moscow… how much there is in that sound

That flows together for the heart of the Russian!]

If we approach the problem from a strictly «количественный подход» [quantitative approach], there are «почти девять миллионов» [almost 9 million] search results on Google for this phrase.

But what interests me most is not «количество» [quantity], but «качество» [quality]. In other words what exactly “flows together” for the hearts of Russians and foreigners alike at the mention of «сердце Родины моей» [the heart of my Motherland].

I must admit, my experiences of Moscow are mostly second-hand, through history textbooks, literature, conversations, etc. I spent a total of about 7 days in Moscow in my whole entire life, in 1996 and again ten years later, in 2006.

Thus I decided to do some arm-chair travelling with the help of you, ladies and gentlemen! Thank you for all your awesome responses to the question on our Facebook page.  Once again, I’m blown away and deeply grateful!

There were a lot of mentions of «музеи» [museums], «Красная площадь» [the Red Square], «мавзолей Ленина» [Lenin’s mausoleum] and «Собор Василия Блаженного» [St. Basil’s Cathedral]. All are must-see when one’s in Moscow, for sure.

Another must-see is «московское метро» [Moscow subway], that boasts some of the most beautifully decorated subway stations in the world. At least, it is true for the old stations. The new ones are either plain or plain weird, like «Достоевская» [Dostoyevsky station] with mosaics depicting key characters and scenes from the “Crime and Punishment” and “Brothers Karamasov”. Not the most «жизнерадостные» [cheerful] or «оптимистические» [upbeat] choices, especially for an underground space. But if there is going to be a macabre tour of Moscow, this station must be on it along with «мавзолей» [the mausoleum] and possibly «Патриаршие пруды» [Patriarshiye, or Patriarch’s, Ponds] from “Master and Margarita”.

Several mentions were about unfriendly, unsmiling people and the general hustle and bustle. I guess the latter is unavoidable in any large city. Besides, life is hard for Moscovites, what with «пробки» [traffic jams], «толчея в метро» [crowded subway], «дороговизна жизни» [expensive living] and freaky weather extremes.

Seriously though, many of my American friends note this outward somberness, lack of joy on the faces of Russians. To which I say – just get to know them better! Yes, Russians are «скупы на улыбки» [thrifty with their smiles] with strangers. But once the initial barriers are broken, it’ll be hard to find a more «отзывчивый и приветливый друг» [understanding and companionable friend] and a more «гостеприимный хозяин» [welcoming host].

Many of you mentioned delicious food, from «блинчики» [blintzes] and «пирожки» [small pies] to «борщ» [borsht] and «мороженое» [ice cream]. In my opinion, if there were only three things you could try while in Moscow, I would make it «чёрный хлеб» [dark bread], «беляш» [small round pie with meat filling], but only if it’s «с пылу с жару» [so fresh, it’s still hot] and «мороженое» [ice cream]. Oh, and just for my American friends, I’ll add «горячий шоколад» [hot chocolate] to my list.

Not sure «как обстоят дела» [how things are] with hot chocolate in other countries, but here in the States it’s just hot water with some cocoa powder mixed in. In Russia this drink is called «какао» [cocoa]. That’s for kids. But «горячий шоколад» I had in cafes in Moscow, boy, it was served with small spoons – that’s how thick it was.

And since I’m no this hot chocolate detour, here’s the recipe I found that best approximates the hot chocolate I had at various cafes in Moscow and St. Petersburg:

 

  1. Start with 100 grams of high-quality dark chocolate. Break it into pieces and «растопите» [melt] it «на водяной бане» [in a double-boiler].
  2. Add 1 table spoon of water and «размешайте» [stir].
  3. In a separate «кастрюлька» [small pot], «доведите до кипения» [bring to boil] 250 milliliters of milk or light cream.
  4. Slowly pour milk into chocolate, «непрерывно помешивая» [constantly stirring].
  5. «Взбейте» [whisk] hot chocolate for a few minutes. Optionally, add sugar to taste and/or fold in some whipped cream.
  6. Pour the real hot chocolate into cups and forget about cocoa powder for the rest of your life.

The tough part about travelling to Moscow is how expensive it is, especially for a foreign tourist. So here’s my question for you – if you only had an overnight stay in Moscow, what would you like to see or do? «Москвичи, посоветуйте нам, гостям столицы!» [Moscovites, do offer your advice to us, the guests of the capital!]

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