Posts tagged with "Moscow"

Alexandr Pushkin, that most famous of the Russian poets, wrote

«Москва… как много в этом звуке

Для сердца русского слилось!»

[Moscow… how much there is in that sound

That flows together for the heart of the Russian!]

If we approach the problem from a strictly «количественный подход» [quantitative approach], there are «почти девять миллионов» [almost 9 million] search results on Google for this phrase.

But what interests me most is not «количество» [quantity], but «качество» [quality]. In other words what exactly “flows together” for the hearts of Russians and foreigners alike at the mention of «сердце Родины моей» [the heart of my Motherland].

I must admit, my experiences of Moscow are mostly second-hand, through history textbooks, literature, conversations, etc. I spent a total of about 7 days in Moscow in my whole entire life, in 1996 and again ten years later, in 2006.

Thus I decided to do some arm-chair travelling with the help of you, ladies and gentlemen! Thank you for all your awesome responses to the question on our Facebook page.  Once again, I’m blown away and deeply grateful!

There were a lot of mentions of «музеи» [museums], «Красная площадь» [the Red Square], «мавзолей Ленина» [Lenin’s mausoleum] and «Собор Василия Блаженного» [St. Basil’s Cathedral]. All are must-see when one’s in Moscow, for sure.

Another must-see is «московское метро» [Moscow subway], that boasts some of the most beautifully decorated subway stations in the world. At least, it is true for the old stations. The new ones are either plain or plain weird, like «Достоевская» [Dostoyevsky station] with mosaics depicting key characters and scenes from the “Crime and Punishment” and “Brothers Karamasov”. Not the most «жизнерадостные» [cheerful] or «оптимистические» [upbeat] choices, especially for an underground space. But if there is going to be a macabre tour of Moscow, this station must be on it along with «мавзолей» [the mausoleum] and possibly «Патриаршие пруды» [Patriarshiye, or Patriarch’s, Ponds] from “Master and Margarita”.

Several mentions were about unfriendly, unsmiling people and the general hustle and bustle. I guess the latter is unavoidable in any large city. Besides, life is hard for Moscovites, what with «пробки» [traffic jams], «толчея в метро» [crowded subway], «дороговизна жизни» [expensive living] and freaky weather extremes.

Seriously though, many of my American friends note this outward somberness, lack of joy on the faces of Russians. To which I say – just get to know them better! Yes, Russians are «скупы на улыбки» [thrifty with their smiles] with strangers. But once the initial barriers are broken, it’ll be hard to find a more «отзывчивый и приветливый друг» [understanding and companionable friend] and a more «гостеприимный хозяин» [welcoming host].

Many of you mentioned delicious food, from «блинчики» [blintzes] and «пирожки» [small pies] to «борщ» [borsht] and «мороженое» [ice cream]. In my opinion, if there were only three things you could try while in Moscow, I would make it «чёрный хлеб» [dark bread], «беляш» [small round pie with meat filling], but only if it’s «с пылу с жару» [so fresh, it’s still hot] and «мороженое» [ice cream]. Oh, and just for my American friends, I’ll add «горячий шоколад» [hot chocolate] to my list.

Not sure «как обстоят дела» [how things are] with hot chocolate in other countries, but here in the States it’s just hot water with some cocoa powder mixed in. In Russia this drink is called «какао» [cocoa]. That’s for kids. But «горячий шоколад» I had in cafes in Moscow, boy, it was served with small spoons – that’s how thick it was.

And since I’m no this hot chocolate detour, here’s the recipe I found that best approximates the hot chocolate I had at various cafes in Moscow and St. Petersburg:

 

  1. Start with 100 grams of high-quality dark chocolate. Break it into pieces and «растопите» [melt] it «на водяной бане» [in a double-boiler].
  2. Add 1 table spoon of water and «размешайте» [stir].
  3. In a separate «кастрюлька» [small pot], «доведите до кипения» [bring to boil] 250 milliliters of milk or light cream.
  4. Slowly pour milk into chocolate, «непрерывно помешивая» [constantly stirring].
  5. «Взбейте» [whisk] hot chocolate for a few minutes. Optionally, add sugar to taste and/or fold in some whipped cream.
  6. Pour the real hot chocolate into cups and forget about cocoa powder for the rest of your life.

The tough part about travelling to Moscow is how expensive it is, especially for a foreign tourist. So here’s my question for you – if you only had an overnight stay in Moscow, what would you like to see or do? «Москвичи, посоветуйте нам, гостям столицы!» [Moscovites, do offer your advice to us, the guests of the capital!]

YouTube Preview Image
I’ve got good news and more good news so which one do you want to hear first?

If you chose good news, here it is. You can now watch some of the iconic Russian movies online for free at Mosfilm’s official YouTube channel. Even better, many movies are digitally restored and subtitled in English.

More good news is that today’s post is for the arm-chair travelers in all of us. How would you like to go «на прогулку по Москве» [on a walk around Moscow]? I would love it very much and that’s what I did earlier today. Ok, well, it was more of a virtual stroll thanks to a few «любительские фильмы» [amateur videos] on the same YouTube. And I want to share this experience with you.

None of these videos are about Moscow’s «достопримечательности» [places of interest]. Sure, these places are visited and filmed, but generally stay in the background. The main focus is on street scenes, the typical ebb and flow of the Moscow city life.

The video opens up with some people in the tour group «кормят голубей» [feeding the pigeons]. Russians have some mixed feelings when it comes to pigeons. For the most part, they are seen as a nuisance since they leave their droppings everywhere. But at the same time, pigeons are «символы мира и счастья» [symbols of peace and happiness].

For some reason the tour group goes to see «кондитерская фабрика «Красный Октябрь»» [the confectionary factory “Red October”]. I mean, last time I was in Moscow, I went by it myself. So I guess I’m not the only one who’s crazy about Russian chocolate. «Обожаю чёрный пористый шоколад!» [I love black porous chocolate!]

The Red October factory is the oldest continuously running candy factory in Russia, in operation since 1851. The red brick building on the embankment that you see in the video now houses the museum and also «цех по производству шоколада ручной работы» [production facility for hand-made chocolates]. Yum!

One thing you might notice in the video is that most cars on Moscow’s roads are «иномарки» [foreign-made and imported car]. Don’t think for a second that most Russians drive «иномарки», whether imported or assembled in the country. Half of all cars on the Russian roads are «подержанные автомобили отечественного производства» [used domestically-produced vehicles].

Another car-related episode in the video is an oddly parked car that’s taking half the sidewalk. As more and more Russians get behind the wheel, large cities experience «острые проблемы с парковкой» [acute problems with parking]. There are not enough convenient and free parking spaces. So «водители» [drivers] carve them out whenever they can (and some places where they really-really can’t or shouldn’t).

Next in the video is «Храм Христа Спасителя» [Cathedral of Christ the Savior]. This enormous cathedral, the largest in Russia, has a fascinating history. You can read all about it on Wikipedia, but let’s just say that first it was a cathedral, then – a giant swimming pool and finally – a cathedral again.

From the pedestrian bridge to the Cathedral there’s a great view onto a much-maligned statue of Peter the Great by sculptor «Зураб Церетели» [Zurab Tsereteli]. If you’re on a quest to see “the biggest” and “the mostest” of all things in Russia, make sure to take lots of pictures. This is the tallest statue in Russia. It is also officially one of the world’s ugliest structures.

Closer to the end of the video we see the group intently looking onto something on the roof of a building. «Тур-гид» [The tour-guide] is pointing to it and starting to talk into his «мегафон» [bull horn] also known (rudely) as «брехальник» from the word «брехать» [to yap or to lie]. Accidentally, «МегаФон» is also a brand name of a cell phone carrier and appears on a few signs throughout this video.

Turns out, there’s a banner on the roof that reads «Дорогие москвичи, не пугайтесь жителей столицы» [Dear Moscovites, don’t be scared of the guests of the capital city]. Many Moscovites have this fear of non-natives who are seen as gold-diggers of the sort, snagging all the good jobs, affordable housing, straining city services and raising crime rates. Yet it seems that Moscow depends heavily on «гастарбайтеры» [guest workers] for all its construction projects.

One of the things that amazed me when I was in Moscow last time and that comes through in this video as well as the amount of «реклама» [advertising] on the streets. Banners, signs, posters and billboards of all sorts are abundant here, including in the city center, frequently dwarfing some of the historical landmarks (as in the middle of this Part 2 video).

I wonder if Moscovites have become immune to these ads just like they used to be immune to all the «Миру – мир» [Peace to the World] and «Слава Коммунистической партии» [Glory to the Communist Party] billboards of the old Soviet days.

Maybe somewhere in between all the recent posts by Yelena on our blog – as well as Vickie’s excellent guest post two days ago – you might have asked yourselves: «А где же Джозефина?!» [“But where is Josefina?!”] I know there’s been a significant gap without me posting here about the wondrous world of Russian grammar (and we all know how hard it is to live for a day without learning something new and exiting about everyone’s favorite language!), but I have a reason for this – and believe me, it’s a good one! Right now «я всё ещё в Екатеринбурге» [I’m still in Yekaterinburg], but let me tell you «где я была» [where I was] a week before this: «я съездила в Москву и в Вологду» [I went (traveled) to Moscow and Vologda]. What did I do there, then? I thought that today I would tell you first about my trip «в европейскую часть Российской федерации» [to the European part of Russian Federation] by way of a couple of informative pictures. After that I’ll explain why I have chosen this particular post to introduce one of the most mysterious verbs of the Russian language: «собираться» [impfv. 1) to gather, assemble; 2) to prepare, get ready; 3) to be gathering, be in the offing; 4) to intend to; 5) to be about to]. Yes, this marvelous little verb has no less than five possible connotations and plausible ways of being translated into English! Aren’t you exited now to find out what makes this particular verb perfect for what I am about to do in less than three days: «уехать из России» [to leave Russia]?

The Russians themselves say that it is a sure sign you’re «из провинции» [from the province] if the first thing you do when in Moscow is «пойти на Красную площадь» [to go to Red Square]. I’m not ashamed to say that this is always what I do first thing when I’m in the Russian «столица» [capital] because I lived «вся моя русская жизнь в провинции» [all of my Russian life in the province]…

But this time I decided to do something I had never done before while in Moscow: «посетить музей Булгакова» [to visit the Bulgakov museum]. It’s free! Here I am standing behind the door to «квартира номер 50 (пятьдесят)» [apartment number 50], known in «Мастер и Маргарита» [“The Master and Margarita”] as «нехорошая квартира» [a not good (or: bad) apartment]. On the top floor you can visit the apartment where Bulgakov lived, but the entrance costs money.

After Moscow I took the train to Vologda, where I celebrated the birthday of my most beloved Russian writer «Варлам Тихонович Шаламов» [Varlam Tikhonovich Shalamov] on the 18th of June at the Shalamov House together with a group of young scholars from Moscow. The more attentive readers might remember that I first visited Vologda in January this year, and that this was also because of Shalamov. I try not to make all of my posts here on the blog about this writer – but sometimes he might slip in without me wanting it… «Что делать? Он же великий писатель!» [What can you do? He's a great writer!].

While being so close to «русский север» [the Russian north], we decided to hop on a bus and travel for three hours further north and visit the small town of «Кириллов» [Kirillov]. From there we took a taxi to the village of «Ферапонт» [Ferapont], where there’s an amazingly beautiful monastery that’s on UNESCO’s list of world heritage. Why? Because it has intact frescos from the 14th century!

Now I’m back «на Урале» [in the Urals] once again, and right now «собираю свою русскую жизнь» [I’m gathering my Russian life]. It feels «так странно» [so strange] that I’m about to leave this country for just as long a period of time as I have spent living here – «шесть лет» [six years]. It goes without saying that I am now very different from the nineteen year old girl I was when I arrived in «Санкт-Петербург» [Saint Petersburg] in August 2004. Yes, I’m «старше» [older], «опытнее» [more experienced] and «умнее» [smarter]. And it feels «ещё страннее» [even stranger] to think of this country now and try «собираться с мыслями» [to collect my thoughts] about what Russia have come to mean to me through the years. There’s too much to say, too much that’s on my heart, in my mind – and yet «так не хватает слов!» [there aren't enough words!]. Of course, I wouldn’t be who I am today «без России» [without Russia], «без русского опыта» [without (my) Russian experience], «без опыта жизни и выживания в России» [without the experience of (lit. life) living and surviving in Russia]. I once heard a foreigner – who had lived and worked in Russia for several years – say that he could write a book about every week he spent in Russia. I don’t know who would read such a book; but I know I could also do that  – easily! But the thing about life is that most things become apparent, clear and comprehensible to us only «в сравнении» [in comparison] and «на расстоянии» [from a distance]. And the best distance of all is «время» [time]. I had to live a couple of years in Russia before I understood what inside of me is Swedish; i.e. what has its source in my nationality, my cultural heritage and upbringing – and what is simply me. That’s why I think it is still too early for me now to say just WHAT I’ll bring with me from this country. «С годами» [with the years] I’ll come to realize what part of me is Russian… For already now I know that I’m partly Russian. One cannot live for this long in a foreign country without making it your own and yourself a part of it. If you can, then you’re not doing the whole immigration thing right!

The past couple of days I have done little else but dedicate myself completely to the verb «собираться»: here in the sense of ‘getting ready’. But «собираться» can also mean ‘to intend to’, and thus the sentence «я собираюсь уехать» may translate into ‘I’m planning to leave’ but also ‘I intend to leave’. The first sentence indicates a very direct plan to do something; the second one not so much. It only states a wish, perhaps an intention – or maybe it was said with strong emotions and tomorrow – when sober – it will not mean anything. «Собираться» is intentionally fuzzy and was probably made up by the Russians so as to confuse non-native speakers. The interesting thing about this verb is that it sometimes doesn’t indicate any action at all (and we all know that we need verbs to tell people we’re DOING something or other). That makes «собираться» different from almost all other verbs in all other languages. For example, when Russians say «Сейчас собираемся» [Now we’re getting ready] it doesn’t have to indicate any movement – it is often said and then followed by, for example, everyone remaining seated at the table and the host pouring you another glass. Or how about this dialogue:

«Почему ты не пришёл вчера [Why didn’t you come yesterday?]

«Собирался прийти, да не получилось» [I planned to (intended to, was about to) come, but it didn’t work out].

Really what this person did was not any action at all; and we will never find out exactly what his «собирание» ['getting ready', ‘intending'] constituted of. So what is the confused non-native speaker to do when confronted with such a strange verb as this one? The only good way to handle is to do as the Russians – use it to your advantage! How? For example, let’s say you agreed to meet someone at a particular place at a particular time. Then you forgot all about it. The person calls you and you’re already ten minutes late. What do you say? «Собираюсь!» [I'm getting ready!] of course! It sounds like you’re already half way there, when in reality you haven’t even put on your shoes yet. This verb always saves the day when you haven’t done something you’re supposed to have done – you can always say «собираюсь» and then continue sipping your tea.

P.S. the perfect to this verb is «собраться» ;) But do note that it is used much less frequently in colloquial speech!

Suddenly it is that time of the year again – the time when one cannot help but feel that one is, was and will always remain a European. This feeling is first and foremost connected with an important European annual event in May: «Евровидение» [Eurovision Song Contest]. This year the competition takes place here in Russia, in everybody’s favorite capital with the red Kremlin and Lenin the mummy, and thus gives me a good reason to write about it here. Not only because after the first semi-final yesterday, on the 12th of May, it was decided that Sweden’s Malena Ernman gets to sing in the final on Saturday the 16th, and when I woke up to these news this morning I found myself suddenly caring about the Eurovision Song Contest again. Before the final there will be a second semi-final, on the 14th of May, and not until after that will we know for sure which countries will be competing for the prestigious title of “Winner of Eurovision Song Contest 2009″. And what is more important – to get the competition to take place in their country next year! For those of you who have managed to forget I can inform you of the fact that Дима Билан [Dima Bilan] won in Belgrade last year (with more than a little help from Плюшенко [Plushenko], I’d say, and I think everyone who saw the performance a year ago agrees with me] with the song “Believe” and that’s why Moscow – for the first time ever! – gets to host the contest this year. This year Russia is represented by Анастасия Приходько [Anastasia Prikhod'ko] and the song “Mamo” [Russian: «Мама»; English: "Mother"] which is sung in both Russian and Ukrainian.

So, how do you best prepare for this Saturday’s big night? A good warm-up would be of course to watch all of Russia’s entries in Eurovision, something that is easily done on this excellent post by Siberian Light. Or you could busy yourself by trying to learn the lyrics to Russia’s entry by heart already now so that you’ll be ready to sing along come Saturday. Here’s the Russian version with my own little translation in English, I’ll hope you’ll get the general idea of the song:

Вышел из тени вновь [He came out of the shadow again]
Мой врагмоя любовь [my enemy - my love]
Неизбежна моя доля, [my lot is inescapable,]
Сколько сердце не готовь [how much you prepare the heart]
Но прежде, чем уйти [but before he left]
Колечком золотым обручил меня с собою [with a golden ring bethrotet me with him]
И от чар не защитил [and against goblets didn't protect]
И на волю мою душу не пустил[and didn't free my soul...]

Припев: [Refrain:]
Мама,
[Mother,]
А ты ж мне сказала
[but you told me]
Не ожидай
[don't expect]
Мама
[Mother]
А я ж тогда не знала  
[but then I didn't know]
Где та беда
[where that sorrow is]
Мама
[Mother]
А ты же мне говорила
[but you said to me]
Время вода
[time is water]
Мама, мама, мама
[Mother, mother, mother]


Любовь – беда
[love is sorrow][I will throw away my dream]
И об пол разобью, [break it against the floor]
Как сломал ты мою долю [like you broke my lot]
И оставил на краю [and left me on the edge]
Я дождём девичьи слёзы разолью[I will cry a rain of maiden tears...]

Припев: [Refrain:]

Once you’ve learned these – far from difficult lyrics – by heart it is about time to learn a thing or two about the host country: Russia. This can be done on Eurovision Song Contest’s official website, which informs you of the most crucial things you need to know about this country, including that its history is ‘long and complicated’. After you’ve done that, you can move ahead and read up on Patricia Kaas, France’s entry, and worry about how your country (if you’re not a very patriotic Russophile/Russian and can’t imagine voting for anything but the Motherland) will ever be able to stand up against this superstar on one and the same stage. You could also buy (or download) the whole “Eurovision Song Contest 2009″ album and irritate members of your immediate family, friends and close neighbors by putting these 42 excellent examples of ‘Euro pop’ on repeat all week long. After all, Eurovision is about two things: 1) listening to music of questionable quality without any shame, even dancing to it if you’ve managed to completely clear yourself of any shame you might’ve had left after downloading the album, and 2) voting for your neighboring countries. The last one is colloquially known as ‘friend-vote’ in Europe and this year they’ve decided to try to limit this phenomenon by giving the jury an equal chance to choose the winner. 50% of the votes will be from watchers/listeners, while the other half belongs to the jury. Otherwise Norway and Sweden always give each other the highest scores, as does Ukraine and Russia, and the country that wins is the country with most neighboring countries. (Now I suppose nobody’s the least surprised that Russia scored it last year?)

Generally speaking, every European country, just like European citizen, has its own point of view on the Eurovision Song Contest. In Sweden it is a bigger deal for us to choose our own entry, as we have four semi-finals and one final within our own country, and come May most Swedes have already had enough their own native ‘Euro pop’ to care about the ‘real’ finale. And thus the final contest in the middle of May is viewed by most as an excellent opportunity to gather family and friends around the TV to watch other country’s entries and make ironic comments. The ironic comments are such a large part of Sweden’s relationship to Eurovision that even papers, blogs and TV channels try to outdo each other by making the best ironic comments. I haven’t noticed such an ironic tone in Russian media, but that could be because Russians don’t see Eurovision as a game on life and death, as Swedes do. Which is easy to understand once you’ve contemplated the fact that it was there that ABBA got their big breakthrough with “Waterloo” and we as a nation can’t let go of the dream that something like it could be happen again…

«Смотрите Евровидение на своё здоровье!»

Who do you think would be a worthy winner? And what do you think about Russia’s entry this year? Does it have a chance?

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