Posts tagged with "екатеринбург"

«Монумент на границе Европы-Азии» [the (new) monument on the border between Europe and Asia] «на московском тракте» [on the highway to Moscow (from Siberia)].

Have you ever dreamed of being in two places at one and the same time? «На Урале» [in the Ural Mountains] all your dreams can come true – including this one! Russia is great country in many, many ways; one way in which it is great is that it spans more than one continent: «Россия расположена и в Европе, и в Азии» [Russia is located both in Europe and in Asia]. Everybody’s favorite country has its historical core as well as most of its population (72%), economic activity and political institutions (such as its capital city «Москва» [Moscow]) in Europe, yet geographically most of the territory (71%) is actually in Asia. Most people are aware of the fact that «граница между Европой и Азией» [the border between Europe and Asia] goes somewhere in the Ural Mountains. Very few know exactly where this «граница находится» [border is located]. Maybe no one actually knows. It is ‘generally accepted’ that the border follows along the river «Урал» [Ural] but not everywhere in the Urals is this general acceptance respected. Like for example in «Екатеринбург» [Yekaterinburg], where I live. Our local historians have – according to what I have been told by them – decided that the border between Europe and Asia is located not far from Yekaterinburg, some 50 kilometers to the west, near the town of «Первоуральск» [Pervoural'sk]. This is of course a very convenient decision. Already in Soviet times a big and flashy «монумент» [monument] was built on the site in honor of its prestigious location on the border, so that tourists could go visit it and take pictures of themselves with their legs «в разных частях мира» [in different parts of the world]. But with time it turned out that this monument had been built not in the ‘right’ spot. Not that it wasn’t ‘officially’ on the border, but that it was located by «старомосковский тракт» [the old highway to Moscow]. When the new highway to Moscow was finished this monument found itself more than a little bit off – adding to this that the old highway was in such a terrible shape that not even the most humble Russian would want to risk taking foreign tourists on it. The old highway is still in a terrible shape; yesterday when we drove back on it my professor repeated the good old Russian proverb «у России две бедыдураки и дороги» [Russia has two sorrows – fools and roads] twice. But this problem was easily solved: a new monument was built on the new highway. The new monument is not only «скромнее» [more humble] than the old one but also more ‘American’ – it is complete with a gift shop and a snack bar and has plenty of places where one can pose for pictures as well as many of benches for «туристы» [pl. tourists] to have a rest on in the nearby wood. If the old monument was all about RUSSIA being on the border – it is «гордо» [proudly] topped by the two-headed eagle – then the new one is more about FRIENDSHIP between countries over the same border. Take a look at the picture below from the site of the new monument:

The same beautiful and hopeful message written in three languages on one and the same pole: «на азиатской стороне» [on the Asian side] «написано по-китайски» [it is written in Chinese], «на европейской стороне» [on the European side] «написано по-английски» [it is written in English] and «в середине» [in the middle] «написано по-русски» [it is written in Russian].

Even though the border between Europe and Asia is only a short car ride away from Yekaterinburg – where I have lived «с августа 2006 (две тысячи шестого) года» [since August 2006] – I had not visited it until yesterday. Why? I don’t know. Maybe it is because it is the one thing that all tourists visiting this city MUST do, but I’ve never felt like I’ve been a «туристка» [fem. tourist] here. Also I don’t have a car – «у меня даже водительских прав нет!» [I don't even have a driver's license!] – and this could have played a large role as to why I never went there for so many years. But I can highly recommend visiting it, even though it is just a place marked by some local historians and the ‘real’ border between Europe and Asia could just as well be somewhere entirely else. If you want to be really sure that you have had one foot both in Europe as well as in Asia at one and the same time, then you should visit «Оренбург» [Orenburg] in the Southern Urals which is a true «пограничный город» [boundary; frontier town]: it belongs to both Europe and Asia at one and the same time. It is also the town where Pushkin’s prose masterpiece «Капитанская дочка» [“The Captain’s Daughter”] is set – and now you have two solid reasons for why to go there! But no, I haven’t been there either…

A snapshot of the ‘old’ monument taken from a European perspective.

The locals here usually don’t say the whole phrase «граница Европы-Азии» [the border of Europe and Asia] but shorten it simply as «Европа-Азия» [Europe-Asia]. I guess that makes a lot of sense because that’s just what it is. Russians here sometimes say things like:

«Поехали на Европу-Азию [Let’s go to (the border between) Europe and Asia!]

«Мы были на Европе-Азии» [We were at (the border between) Europe and Asia].

Here I am –with one foot «в Европе» [in Europe] and the other «в Азии» [in Asia]. But all of me is still «в России» [in Russia]… Sometimes when I think of the fact that I’ve lived in ASIA since February 2005 I get puzzled: is Russia really Asia? Yes and no. That it is IN Asia, well, that’s a given – isn’t it?

Have you ever visited the border between Europe and Asia? If yes – where? If no – then maybe you’ve been on two places at one and the same time somewhere else?

Usually my Russian hometown «Екатеринбург» [Yekaterinburg] looks like this: «бесконечные пробки на улицах» [endless traffic jams on the streets] and «бесконечный ремонт домов и дорог» [endless reconstruction of houses and roads]. But not anymore!

Now my «родной город на Урале» [hometown in the Urals] looks like this! Pictured above is the main street of the city – «проспект Ленина» [Lenin's prospect]. You might not find this picture too extraordinary, but let me inform you of the fact that I’ve lived here for almost three years and I’ve never actually seen the asphalt there before for all the cars… So what’s going on in Yekat right now, you’re wondering? Well, yesterday and today (16-17 of June) marked the summit of «ШОС» [SCO] - that’s short for «Шанхайская организация сотрудничества» [Shanghai Cooperation Organization]. Tomorrow another summit starts here in our town: «БРИК» [BRIC]- that’s an acronym for the countries «Бразилия, Россия, Индия, Китай» [Brazil, Russia, India, China]. Yes, we’re all crowded with international presidents and thousands of policemen flown in from all over Russia to protect them (from us or from themselves, now that is the question…)!

During the past two months Yekaterinburg, where I have lived, studied and worked for almost three years now, has changed greatly day by day before my eyes – «к лучшему!» [for the better!] Yekaterinburg is like most Russian large cities; with both good and bad sides and its own little special, quirky details. But most of all it’s just like any other Russian city at this point in time – growing fast and changing at an even quicker rate. The financial crisis hit hard during last fall, and for a while everything seemed to be standing still; for a couple of months all construction sites around town (they’re everywhere here!) stopped working. Then in April – with the two international summits SCO and BRIC only two months away – the Russians proved that they indeed can do things right: if they’re forced to, that is. Yekaterinburg shaped up in ways I had never foreseen. Roads were fixed or built from scratch all over again (since they were in such a poor condition to begin with), buildings were painted, flowers planted, embarrassing elements removed (such as advertisement reminding of the ongoing financial crisis, mostly those saying «аренда» [for rent] on new fashionable buildings) and Yekaterinburg began to look like a ‘real’ modern ‘megapolis’. Most of these changes, though, were made only within the center of the city and mainly their the efforts were concentrated on the roads on which the delegations were to travel on during this week in June, yet the amount of work that they pulled off within two months are still worth an enormous amount of respect. They even managed to build a new terminal at the airport! (My close friend, who works at the airport, said they did it so fast that it’ll probably come tumbling down by the end of June, but hey, if that’s not the Russian way, then I don’t know what ‘the Russian way’ is.)

The green building seen in the background – newly renovated for the purpose – is «резиденция президента Российской федерации в Екатеринбурге» [the residence for the president of the Russian Federation in Yekaterinburg] where «Дмитрий Анатольевич Медведев» [Dmitry Anatol'evich Medvedev] might be having his tea right as you read this as he’ll be staying there this whole week. I’m sorry for the poor quality of the pictures today – my camera broke and I’m forced to document Russian reality with my phone these days…

At first I thought of calling today’s post: “Word of the Week: «Показуха»” [colloq. show; window dressing; from the verb «показать/показывать» - to show; display; demonstrate], since that’s what has been on my mind the entire month of June. Because, I thought, Russians don’t care about keeping their city clean for themselves, but as soon as somebody from the outside decides to take a peak at how they’re living, then they’re always careful to put on an impressive show. Afterwards everything – as is the general rule – falls to pieces while the last flight with important international people leaves town. Today I took a walk around town and it changed my feelings completely. The city has never looked as good as it did today – everything was clean, even the weather behaved well (sunny and warm!), there were hardly any cars on the streets which meant that the city was calm, quiet and perfect for walking around and enjoying life in. Everywhere in the city people seemed to be feeling just what I was feeling; everywhere people were walking around and listening to the silence and soaking up the sun and breathing not-so-dirty-as-usual air. With a couple of police officers on every street corner this is the safest I’ve ever felt in Russia. I don’t mind if this will last for just for a week or a month – «я горжусь своим городом» [I'm proud of my town]. One of my friends sighed deeply at the sight of empty, wide prospects everywhere and said – not without a sweet sense of tender nostalgia in her voice – «Ах ты, совок!» «Совок» is the Russian word for the English variant ‘Homo Soveticus’; in the way she used this word it can be translated as: ‘Ah you, Soviet Union!’ Or something like it. And I have to agree because yes, in a way today Yekaterinburg looked just like it does on all those old Soviet photographs… clean, empty and filled with men of the law keeping order.

«Точно как в старые времена [Just like in the olden days!]

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