Posts from May 2008

Though the city of Tomsk itself is much more than it might seem to be from the pictures I have chosen, I think that it would be a shame to not share these photographs with you. As Russia on this very day [May 7th 2008] is getting ready for the coronation – oops! – I mean, of course, inauguration of Dmitry Medvedev, as hundreds of tanks at night time are running the streets of several big Russian cities in preparation for the born-Soviet-again military parades of Victory Day May 9th, it seems all the more appropriate to turn an eye to the past as we step into a future not quite so clear as we’d hoped it would be. Perhaps I should focus on safer subjects – as was my plan today to write a little funny piece about the six cases «падежи» of Russian language – but not only. I don’t want to only be such a writer, just a humorous commentator on Russia, not because I think that I am a very serious individual with highly unique views or know something you don’t, but solely for the reason that I’ve been here long enough to get over that initial phase of misunderstanding this country while laughing at ‘them weird Russians’ and their ‘strange ways’. Not too long ago I was asked to write a weekly column for the website of new state TV Chanel Russia Today, and I agreed, but after the first three pieces I wrote for them their words about how I should “keep it light and funny and nothing serious” made me feel deeply underappreciated. Anyway, since it’s a Russian company, which seems rather chaotic and fluctuating from the view of such a minor contributor as myself, I might not even be an employee with them anymore and therefore I am free to say whatever I want (though I should try keep my tongue in the right mouth anyway – blogs are by Russian law considered to be means of mass communication and the first blogger has already been sentenced [to prison?] for talking bad about cops… no comment).

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A cross made out of pictures of people executed in Tomsk, the NKVD museum.

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Томск [Tomsk] has a population of half a million and is located in Siberia, but since Siberia is a big place one is quite in the right to ask – where exactly? North-east of Novosibirsk by five hours by commute train, to be precise, the city is seated two hours north of the Trans-Siberian railroad route along the river Томь [Tom’]. Founded already in 1604, it is one of the oldest towns of Siberia, and it has the oldest university of the region – Томский государственный университет – which has protected a strong tradition of scientific studies for over 130 years now. In the city there are six more universities, and this has earned it the nickname of “Siberian Athens”, and it is estimated that every fourth inhabitant in one way or another is enrolled in academic courses. In many ways Tomsk resembles another, though more Western, Siberian town – Tobolsk. Both of them were ‘centers’ of exile, Tobolsk in the 19th century and Tomsk in the 20th, and because of this influx of intellectuals and other well educated people from European parts of Russia, they have both – after the terror died out, that is – enjoyed a rise in both scholarly and as well as artistic spheres to set them apart from other remote cities. This is something that can be felt straight away upon arrival to a Siberian town – whether or not it was a place for shuffling exiles to their points of destination – or, if not scientifically proved yet, it is at least my opinion. Yekaterinburg or Novosibirsk both have more of a ‘worker’ feel to them, because they were created to be industrial centers, where as Tobolsk and Tomsk both have a certain ‘sensitive’ air about them due to the intellectual activities that went on there despite of all the hardships. Needless to say, I fell in love with Tomsk as soon as I arrive last Sunday and stayed one day longer than necessary only because I liked it so much. Though now is neither the time nor the place to tell you why – maybe some other time [or read my private blog!] – but I’d like to talk about something else that has to do with Tomsk today, about Томский мемориальный музей истории политических репрессий «Следственная тюрьма НКВД» (филиал Томского областного краеведческого музея) [Tomsk Memorial Museum of History of Political Repressions “Investigatory Prison of the NKVD” (branch of Tomsk Regional Museum)] located in the very heart of the city.

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First you are met by this gloomy sign: МУЗЕЙ «Следсвтенная тюрьма НКВД» [MUSEUM “Investigatory prison of the NKVD”]

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I’m very ashamed of it, but I must confess my mistake and make up for it immediately – I forgot one of the most important signs found in Novosibirsk in my last post! It is, of course, the following sign «на почётном месте» [in an honorable place] on the brick wall of the train station with the following message for generations to come: «На этом месте находилась станция Обь, где в 1897 году, следуя в село Шушенское, останавлисался В. И. Ленин» [In this place the station of Ob' was located, where in 1897 on the way to the village of Shyshenskoe V. I. Lenin stopped].

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On my way to the conference in Tomsk, I stopped for a day in the biggest city of Siberia – Novosibirsk. It had been almost three years since my last visit there, and I was happily surprised to find it still as much of a Soviet monument today as it was in 2005. During the 20th century it was the fastest growing city on the planet, going from a couple of thousand inhabitants by 1917 till 1,5 million in the 80’s. While walking around the city on Orthodox Eastern Sunday I caught some shots of different signs found in the center, and I’d thought I’d share them with you so here they are – enjoy!

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«С 1 апреля – дни массовой весенней уборки города. ВМЕСТЕ СДЕЛАЕМ НОВОСИБИРСК ЧИСТЫМ!» [From the 1st of April – days of mass spring cleaning of the city. TOGETHER WE WILL MAKE NOVOSIBIRSK CLEAN!]

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