Posts under "Travel"

Il Ponte dei Sospiri (The Bridge of Sighs) is one of the most famous of the roughly 400 bridges which span i canali di Venezia (Venice’s canals). Designed by the Swiss-Italian sculptor and architect Antonio Contino, il Ponte dei Sospiri was constructed at the beginning of the seventeenth century in order to span the Rio di Palazzo and connect le Prigioni Nuove (the New Prisons) with il Palazzo Ducale, in which were located gli uffici degli Inquisitori di Stato (the offices of the State Inquisitors).

 

Internally, the bridge consists of due stretti corridoi affiancati (two narrow parallel corridors), one of which leads to the Quarantia Criminale and the rooms of the tribunal, and the other to the Avogadoria (lawyers’ offices). It was traditionally believed that prisoners crossing the bridge to begin their incarceration would take what would probably be their last glimpse of the outside world and utter a sigh of sadness. Unfortunately this romantic notion is contradicted by the fact that the view from the stone grilled windows of the bridge is very restricted (see photo below), but it’s a lovely legend none the less, as is the local belief that due persone che si amano avranno la felicità eterna se si baciano al tramonto su una gondola sotto il Ponte dei Sospiri (two people that love each other will have eternal happiness if they kiss in a gondola under the Bridge of Sighs at sunset).

 

The bridge takes its name from the poet Lord Byron’s lengthy narrative Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage, published between 1812 and 1818 and dedicated to “Ianthe”, the nickname of the poet’s intimate friend, Lady Charlotte Harley. Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage describes the travels and reflections of a world-weary young man who, disillusioned with a life of pleasure and revelry, looks for distraction in foreign lands. The poem,  which is divided into four cantos, is believed to be a vehicle for Byron’s personal beliefs and ideas. It is in the fourth canto that Byron wrote the lines: “I stood in Venice on the Bridge of Sighs, a palace and prison on each hand”.

Le Prigioni Nuove, which were probably the first purpose built prisons in Europe, lists amongst their most illustrious ‘guests’ Giacomo Casanova, the famous Italian adventurer, author and womaniser, whose name is still synonymous with seduction. At the age of thirty Casanova was arrested and sentenced to five years imprisonment for the crime of blasphemy. He was incarcerated in i Piombi (The Leads), the name given to the infamous cells under the lead roof of the prisons which became an oven in the summer and a freezer in the winter. Casanova, however, had other ideas, and set about devising an escape plan. His first attempt was ruined by an unexpected change of accommodation, but Casanova regained his determination and eventually escaped through the lead roof with the help of another prisoner, a renegade priest called Father Balbi. Thirty years later, Casanova recounted the tale of his escape from the Prigioni Nuove in his book ‘Story of my Flight’.

Il Duomo di Milano (Milan Cathedral), at 108.50 meters high and covering an area of 11.700 square meters, is the fourth largest church in Europe. Yet there is an enclosed space here in Italy that could swallow the cathedral whole!

L’Abisso Ancona, altezza 200 metri,  lunghezza 180 metri, e larghezza 120 metri (The Ancona Abyss, height 200 meters, length 180 meters, and width 120 meters), is the biggest of the Grotte di Frasassi (Grottoes of Frasassi) and also one of the largest in the world. Discovered in1971, this spectacular subterranean space is breath-taking not just because of its dimensions but also for its sheer beauty. See this link for info on how to get there: Directions to Frasassi

Visitors to Frasassi can take a guided tour lasting just over an hour and passing through a series of amazing underground chambers decorated with spectacular sculptures, all created by the hand of mother nature. These natural sculptures have been given evocative names such as: ‘Cascate del Niagara’, which is described as una colata bianchissima di calcite allo stato puro (‘Niagara Falls’ a flow of pure white calcite), and: ‘Albero morto’, una stalagmite con forma superiore ramificata, originata da un cambiamento di direzione di caduta dello stillicidio dell’acqua (Dead Tree, a stalagmite with ‘branches’ on its upper part, caused by a change of direction in the dripping of water).

Above: ‘Cascate del Niagara’

Upon entering L’Abisso Ancona the visitor is confronted with: un enorme gruppo di stalagmiti, alte fino a 20 metri, che troneggiano su una lato della sala cui è stato attribuito il nome de ‘I Giganti’ (an enormous group of stalagmites, up to 20 meters high, which dominate one side of the ‘room’, and which have been given the name of ‘The Giants’.)

The tour, which covers roughly 1.2 kilometres, is fairly easy going, although visitors are advised to wear comfortable shoes. Warm clothing is also important due to the ambient temperature of 14 degrees centigrade which the caverns maintain all year round.

Once back up above ground you shouldn’t miss the nearby Museo Speleo Paleontologico ed Archeologico (Museum of Speleology, Palaeontology and Archaeology) which houses important prehistoric evidence and bronze age artefacts which have been discovered at Frasassi. Amongst these is un enorme  fossile di ittiosauro risalente al periodo giurassico  (an enormous ichthyosaurus fossil from the Jurassic period).

To learn more about Frasassi and the surrounding area this site is a good place to start: Visit Frasassi

Travelling north from Lucca along the winding road that follows the river Serchio upstream into the heart of the Garfagnana region, one of the most notable landmarks that you encounter is il Ponte del Diavolo (the Devil’s Bridge) at Borgo a Mozzano. Four beautifully proportioned arches spanning the river, each one a different size, frame the dark green backdrop of chestnut forests reflected in the rippling water.

Ponte del Diavolo 1

Il Ponte del Diavolo is a ponte a schiena d’asino (mule back bridge) built in the Fourteenth Century by Castruccio Castracani, Lucca’s infamous warlord, (his name in English romantically translates as ‘Dear Castrator who Castrates dogs’) over an older bridge dating back to the Eleventh Century. The bridge’s real name is Ponte della Maddalena (Magdalena’s Bridge), named after a chapel which used to stand at one end of it , but it has become known as il Ponte del Diavolo (the Devil’s Bridge) because of a fascinating legend that surrounds its construction. I first heard this story as a child when my family used to go to the thermal spa at the nearby town of Bagni di Lucca, and every time we passed the bridge, I would feel shivers running up my spine.

Ponte del Diavolo 2

According to the legend the construction of the bridge was troubled by subsidence problems. Il capomastro (the master builder), concerned about the interminable delays, decided to make a pact with the devil: the devil would build the bridge in one night and in return he would get the soul of the first creature to cross it. The master builder accepted the deal and the bridge was completed as promised in one night. However, on the eve of the opening day the master builder, overcome with remorse, went and asked il parroco (the parish priest) for help. The priest promptly came up with a solution. The morning after, at the inauguration ceremony, the priest and the master builder sent a dog to cross the bridge! The devil, full of anger at having been tricked, grabbed the dog and threw it and himself into the river. People from the village of Borgo a Mozzano say that at night you can sometimes still hear the howling of the poor bedevilled dog rising up from the waters of the river.

N.B. There are several variations on this legend, e.g. sometimes the animal sacrificed to the devil is a pig. But this has always been my favourite.

In questi giorni c’è mia sorella Viv in vacanza qui da noi. Siccome quest’anno l’estate sembra non voler finire e fa ancora bel tempo, ieri abbiamo deciso di fare un salto giù al mare.

Abbiamo il nostro posto secreto, una bellisima baia tranquilla, nascosta fra scogliere e pinete. Mi dispiace, ma non vi rivelo il suo nome.

My sister Viv is here with us on holiday at the moment. As the summer doesn’t seem to want to end this year, and the weather is still lovely, we decided to pop down to the sea yesterday.

We’ve got our secret place, a beautiful tranquil bay, hidden amongst the cliffs and pine woods. I’m sorry but I’m not going to reveal its name to you.

Lig 8

Farsi una nuotata in ottobre è veramente una cosa meravigliosa. L’acqua: ancora abbastanza calda, il cielo:  di un azzurro intenso che non si vede mai durante il caldo afoso di luglio ed agosto, la poca gente: si gode quella che è forse l’ultima opportunità di bagnarsi e sdraiarsi sulla sabbia in costume. Sono veramente momenti preziosi questi

It’s really fantastic to have a swim in October. The water: still quite warm, the sky: an intense azure that you never see during the hot stuffy days of July and August, the few folks: enjoying what may be their last opportunity to bathe and lay on the beach in their swimming costumes. These are really precious moments

Lig 7

Sono  soprattutto i colori liguri che ti rimangono in mente dopo una giornata così, sia i colori della natura che quelli introdotti dall’uomo. È uno spettacolo irresistibile per chi porta la macchina fotografica.

Above all, it’s the Ligurian colours that stay in your mind after a day like this, both the colours of nature and those introduced by man. It’s an irresistible spectacle for those who carry a camera with them

Lig 2

I vecchi muri dipinti nei colori liguri tradizionali, e poi esposti agli elementi naturali, il sole, la pioggia, l’aria salmastra, diventano capolavori d’arte

The old walls painted in the traditional Ligurian colours, and then exposed to the elements, the sun, the rain, the salty sea air, become masterpieces.

Lig 1

Gioco di luci ed ombre, un angolino diventa un quadro cubista

The play of light and shadow, a little corner becomes a cubist painting

Lig 4

ed in un altro angolo, un piccolo giardinetto lussureggiante.

and in another corner, a small luxuriant garden.

When I visit an ancient site I like to let my imagination wander and to ‘feel’ the history. I find this much harder, or even impossible to do amongst hoards of tourists, so I prefer to find lesser know places, such as the ruins of the Roman town known as Carsulae near Terni in Umbria.

L’antica città Romana di Carsulae owes its existence to la via Flaminia, the Roman military road which was opened between 220 and 219 a.C. (avanti Cristo, or Before Christ) by Caio Flaminio. This important route, which ran between Roma and Ariminium (the Roman name for Rimini) on the Adriatic coast, was used by Roman troops to move rapidly into territory already conquered and to undertake further expansion of the empire.

Carsulae’s origins go back to the II secolo a.C. (2nd century B.C.) when it began to develop beside the ramo occidentale (western branch) of the via Flaminia due to the movement and aggregation of local communities who benefitted from the progressive  Romanizzazione dell’Umbria (Romanization of Umbria). Latin authors record the favorable location of the town on the margins of a fertile pianura (plain). Over the course of time residential villas were built by important people from the capital who came to ‘fare le cure’ (take the cures) at the abundant local acque termali (thermal baths) which can still be found today at nearby Sangemini Terme.

In the IV secolo d.C. (4th century A.D.) Carsulae fell into decline due to the progressive disuse of the western branch of the Flaminia in favor of the more accessible ramo orientale (eastern branch). The final blow to the town’s fortunes came in the form of un sisma (un terremoto – an earthquake) which struck in the second half of the VI secolo d.C. (6th century A.D.)

Well, that’s enough of the history lesson! What made Carsulae special for me? There are some quite impressive ruins to see, such as La Cisterna Antiquarium, l’Anfiteatro, il Teatro, il Foro, and the beautiful Chiesa di San Damiano (3.) which is, basically, a ‘recycled’ Roman building that was transformed into a church around the XI (11th) and XII (12th) centuries d.C. But for me the most evocative element of Carsulae, the thing that transported me back through time, was my walk from the ruins of the town center, and out towards the area of the necropoli (necropolis, or cemetery).

Flaminia 2

1. The rutted surface of la via Flaminia

Flanked by the ancient remains of the Forum and the Basilica, the massive stone paving slabs lead us up a gentle slope to the brow of a hill. We pass through a shady avenue of cerri (holm oaks 1.) and see before us the remaining central arch of l’Arco di San Damiano (2.) which was once the northern entrance to the town. Just beyond the arch lies an oak wood containing the massive monumental tombs of wealthy and important Carsulae citizens.

Flaminia 3

2. L’Arco di San Damiano

I feel a need to touch the weathered stone blocks in order to make contact with their memories. How many baking summers and gelid winters have they seen? Tenuous plants push their roots into cracks and lizards scuttle over their sun warmed surfaces. Who were the people whose lives played out in this place, what were their thoughts, hopes, beliefs?  I run my fingers over the deeply etched ruts carved by the wheels of thousands of carts and carriages into the limestone paving slabs that lie, as they have done for more than 2,000 years, along the path of the via Flaminia. Quanti piedi (How many feet) … of centurians, contadini (peasants), pastori con le bestie (shepherds with their animals), families rich and poor have followed this road and passed as I have today through l’Arco di San Damiano?

Flaminia 4

3. A local wedding takes place in la Chiesa di San Damiano.

The guests stand on the slabs of the ancient via Flaminia.

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