Posts under "Culture"

When our 78 year old neighbour Dina was a girl, la gente andava giù al fiume a fare il bucato (people went down to the river to do their washing). The freshly washed clothes were left stretched out on big rocks to dry in the sun. Dina remembers that ‘i panni lavati così erano tutta un’altra cosa’ (clothes washed in this way were really something else), and believes that the modern washing machine – la lavatrice – can’t wash clothes as well as the old method.

Detersivi (detergents) and ammorbidenti (fabric softeners) didn’t exist in those days, so people made their own soap using left over olio di oliva (olive oil), or grasso di maiale (pig fat) boiled in water with caustic soda, left to cool, and cut into small blocks. This soap was also used for personal hygiene.

Before washing la biancheria (the linen) with soap however,  it was first bleached and disinfected in the following way:

A large terracotta container, called la  conca, was filled with la biancheria. This was covered with un telo (a cloth) called il cenerone, on which was placed la cenere (ash) from the wood stove. Boiling water was poured over la cenere and allowed to filter through the linen inside la conca, exiting into a container from a spout at the base. This water was reheated and the process repeated until the the water that came out of the conca was the same temperature as that poured in. This indicated that all the linen had been properly soaked (see photo below).

La biancheria was then ready to be taken to the river or il lavatoio (the laundry). Il lavatoio in our village consisted of two large vasche (water troughs) under a stone arch, which were fed by una sorgente (a spring). This old lavatoio, where all the women once gathered to lavare i panni (wash the clothes), and exchange pettegolezzi (gossip), is now part of our property, and we mainly use it to store our supply of wood for the winter.

Above: Dina leads a cow down the street past the arch of the old lavatoio

Dina doesn’t, however, romanticize about the past in the way that many disillusioned city dwellers do. ‘Le cose sono molto meglio adesso poiché nel passato la vita era molto dura’ (things are much better now because in the past life was really hard), says Dina. In fact spending hours bent over the lavatoio washing clothes in the chilly spring water was just one of the hard physical tasks that women had to perform in the so called bei tempi andati (good old days).

It was about 20 years ago that I discovered that my cousin Simona, who is two years younger than me, had become a vegetarian.  Simona was very fond of her pet rabbit, so one day when she opened the fridge to find a dead, skinned rabbit inside she was so shocked that she decided to become a vegetarian. Just for the record, the dead creature in the fridge wasn’t her pet.

Back in those days Italian vegetarians where very rare however, and we used to consider them as being linked to some kind of weird religious sect!

Today, according to the latest Rapporto Eurispes 2011 (a national survey), roughly 5 millions Italians, or about 9% of the population, are vegetariani. According to some studies this makes Italy the  leading vegetarian country in Europe, closely followed by Germany. However, this is a bit of a difficult and confusing subject which has many  possible variations.

Leonardo Pinelli, vice-president of the Società Scientifica di Nutrizione Vegetariana (Scientific Society of Vegetarian Nutrition), says that around half of vegetarians choose a vegetarian diet based on the belief that eating mainly fruit and vegetables benefits their health. A very high proportion (44%) of those that become vegetarian do so because they are opposed to the maltreatment of animals. It is also becoming more common for people to choose to become vegetarians per ragioni ambientaliste (for environmental reasons). The theory is that a vegetarian diet is less wasteful in terms of resources and causes less damage to the environment.

In general more women than men choose to be vegetarian, and the majority of non meat eaters fall within two main age bands: 13.5 % of those aged 18 to 24, and 9.3% of the over 65’s are vegetarian.

Personally, I used to think that I could never give up the pleasure of eating una fiorentina (a Florentine steak). However, I became a vegetarian 15 years ago when I met my husband Geoff, who has not eaten meat for nearly 35 years (for moral reasons, having spent a summer in his youth working on an industrialised pig farm). In the beginning I ate vegetarian meals just to keep Geoff company, but gradually I became a ‘full-time’ vegetarian because I realised that I felt healthier with this type of diet.

So, what do us Italian Vegetarians eat? Well, eating out in Italy when you’re vegetarian isn’t very difficult because Italian cuisine, unlike traditional English cuisine where everything is lumped together on one plate, is served as separate dishes. As a vegetarian therefore, you can stick to the primi piatti (first courses), which consist mainly of carbohydrates such as pasta and risotto, and the contorni (vegetable side dishes). These dishes are normally served separately from the meat. In particular, the old Italian “poor peasant’s food” is wonderful for vegetarians: pasta e fagioli, pasta e ceci, riso e lenticchie and so on. In the past, meat was a luxury for most people and carbohydrates and pulses, such as fagioli (beans), ceci (chick peas), and lenticchie (lentils), were the main staple diet.

When we go out to our favourite restaurant here in Pontremoli we like to eat either tagliatelle ai funghi porcini (egg pasta with porcini mushrooms), or tortelli di erbe ai funghi porcini (egg pasta stuffed with wild spinach and dressed with porcini mushrooms). You have to be wary of risotto, because it’s normally made with brodo di carne o di pollo (meat or chicken stock), and it’s always best to enquire about the ingredients of stuffed pasta. But nowadays if you say sono vegetariano (I’m vegetarian), waiters will be able to direct you to the ‘safe’ dishes, or even offer to make something especially for you.

Of course, if all else fails you can always have a nice pizza margherita.

On the 17th of January the Catholic Church commemorates Sant’Antonio Abate (Saint Anthony the Abbot), patron saint of animali domestici (pets and farm animals), macellai e quelli che lavorano il maiale (butchers and those who process pork), and coloro che sono afflitti dal fuoco di sant’Antonio (those who suffer from shingles or herpes zoster, commonly known in Italy as Saint Anthony’s fire).

Sant’Antonio Abate was born in Egypt in 251 AD. Following his parents’ death he chose to become a hermit and he lived in the desert for over 20 years, where he fought the devil who both tempted him with angelic voices and tortured him with fire. Word soon spread and many admirers and would-be disciples came to look for him. He miraculously healed people, and instructed his followers to base their lives on the Gospel. His disciples created two communities on both sides of the river Nile, where they lived in caves. Anthony died ultracentenario (over a hundred years old) in 356 AD, and his disciples buried him in a secret place, but in 561 his remains were discovered, and his relics began a long journey from Alexandria to Constantinople, ending near Viennes in France in the XI century. In this place, a monastery dedicated to Sant’Antonio Abate was founded.

Soon many people, particularly those suffering from shingles, began to come to the monastery to be healed. The condition of shingles was treated with pork fat, which helped to reduce the burning pain, and for this reason the monks were granted permission to keep pigs. The pigs were fed by the whole community and could run free in the village as long as they wore a bell around their necks. This led to the tradition of representing Sant’Antonio with a piglet at his feet (see photo below). For this reason Anthony is also known as Sant’Antonio del Porcello (Saint Anthony of the piglet), which helps to distinguish him from the later and more famous Sant’Antonio da Padova (Saint Anthony from Padua). In the south of Italy, in order to avoid confusion, Sant’Antonio Abate is called Sant’Antuono.

Sant'Antonio Abate 1

Sant’Antonio Abate represented with a piglet at his feet, and holding the Tau stick of a hermit, a bell, a Bible and fire.

This traditional representation of Sant’Antonio gradually led to the erroneous belief that he was the protector of pigs, and hence all farm animals, swineherds, butchers, and so on. It is for this reason that Saint Anthony’s image is traditionally placed inside or above the entrances of stables in order to protect the animals. Legend has it that on the night of the 17th of January farm animals gain the power of speech. On this date farmers stay away from their stables because overhearing the animals speaking can bring bad luck. On Saint Anthony’s day in many churches here in Italy a mass is celebrated to bless domestic animals, and people are allowed to take their pets to church.

festa_s_antonio_cascia

Pecore (sheep) being led through the streets of Cascia (Umbria) on Saint Anthony’s day.

Sant’Antonio Abate’s name also has a strong link to fire. According to a legend, Sant’Antonio travelled to hell in order to try and rescue some souls from the Devil. At a certain point his piglet, which used to follow him everywhere, began running around and creating havoc. Anthony used this opportunity to steal some fire from the Devil with his bastone del Tau  (the Tau stick, symbol of the hermits), which he then brought back up to earth and donated to humanity by setting fire to a stack of wood. This would seem to be a Christian version of the Greek myth of Prometheus who brought fire to mankind from the underworld. On the night of the 17th of January, in order to commemorate Saint Anthony, it is traditional in many parts of Italy to light the falò (bonfire). Last night we went to watch the falò di San Niccolò (San Niccolò is the name of the quartiere where the falò takes place here in Pontremoli). I’ll be writing a blog about this event in the near future.

This is my third and final blog about innovazioni italiane (Italian innovations) from the last 150 years since Italy’s unification.

Here are another four important innovations that have been ‘Made in Italy’:

1. Vibram -  A mountaineering accident, in which six alpinisti (mountaineers) froze to death due to lack of adequate footwear, was the stimulus for the development of a new type of sole. In 1936 the mountaineering expert Vitale Bramani developed climbing boots that would deal with all conditions, both on ice and rock. With the collaboration of Leopoldo Pirelli he perfected a sole made of vulcanised rubber that used a grip which became known as carrarmato (tank). The brand name Vibram was inspired by Vitale Bramani’s name.

2. Cambio per bici (bicycle gears) – These days when we ride a bicycle we take it for granted that, by moving a lever on the handlebars, we can change gears to make it easier to go up a hill. Less than a hundred years ago, however, things weren’t quite so simple: at that time changing gear involved getting off your bike and loosening the nuts on the rear wheel in order to move the chain by hand onto another cog, then tensioning the wheel and tightening the nuts before setting off again. It was the Italian cyclist Tullio Campagnolo who revolutionised the world of cycling with a number of innovative modifications. One of these was the cambio a bacchetta commonly known as the ‘dérailleur’ mechanism, which Campagnolo perfected in 1935. This mechanism enabled the cyclist to change gears by means of two levers without having to dismount the bike . (see photo below)

Atala_Cambio_Corsa_Drivetrain

3. Mater-Bi – In the early 1990s, mindful of the problems caused by the difficult process of recycling plastic, and the consequent impact on the environment, the Italian chemical colossus Novamont  developed a new kind of plastic called Mater-Bi. Invented by Catia Bastioli, Mater-Bi differs from the old types of plastic in that it is biodegradable. This new plastic is obtained from materials such as amido di mais, di grano e di patata (maize, wheat, and potato starch), and decomposes naturally into water, carbon dioxide, and methane due to the action of micro-organisms.

4. MPEG – MPEG is currently the most commonly used standard for compressing digital video. The name MPEG is an acronym for Moving Picture Experts Group, the company co-founded and chaired by the Torinese engineer Leonardo Chiariglione. In the 1980s Chiariglione, disillusioned by the failure of the International Radio Consultative Committee (CCIR) to adopt a single world standard for high-definition television (HDTV), followed in the footsteps of the Joint Photographic Experts Group, which had succeeded in setting international standards for the storage of still pictures in an image format which is commonly known by the acronym JPEG. Here is an interesting article about the birth of the MPEG: Chiariglione.org

Well done everyone who had a go at my quiz ‘Quanto bene conosci l’Italia?’. Here are the correct answers:

 

1. Roughly how many inhabitants does Italy have: a. 40million, b. 50million, c. 60million, or d. 70million?

c. 60,000,000 – according to Istat, The National Institute for Statistics, “Al 31 dicembre 2010 risiedevano in Italia 60.626.442 persone” (On the31st of December 2010 60,626,442 people resided in Italy)

2. Which city is famous for its romantic songs?

Napoli

3. On which Italian island was Napoleon exiled?

L’Isola d’Elba – Elba lies off the coast of Toscana. Napoleon lived there in exile between the 4th of May 1814 and the 27th of February 1815 (watch out for a future blog on the subject)

4. Which cities or regions are associated with: a. la Camorra, b. la ‘ndrangheta, and c. Cosa Nostra?

la Camorra, la ‘ndrangheta, and Cosa Nostra are all Mafia style organised crime associations and are linked respectively to: a. Napoli, b. Calabria, and c. Sicilia

5. What are the main ingredients of la cecina, also known as farinata?

The main ingredient of la cecina is, as the name suggests, farina di ceci (chick pea flour). This is mixed with water, salt and olive oil to make a thin savoury crepe. In Liguria, cecina is known as farinata (see my 2009 blog: La Farinata)

6. Who wrote La Divina Commedia?

Dante Alighieri (1265 – 1321)

7. What is the real name of the singer Jovanotti?

Jovanotti is the stage name of Lorenzo Cherubini. See my blog: Jovanotti

8. Which four countries share their borders with Italy?

L’Italia confina con la Francia a ovest, con la Svizzera e l’Austria a nord e con la Slovenia ad est (Italy borders with France in the west, Switzerland and Austria in the north, and Slovenia in the east).

9. Which composers of opera music wrote the following: a. Madama Butterfly, b. Rigoletto, and c. Il Barbiere di Siviglia?

a. Puccini b. Verdi, c. Rossini

10. What is the name of the Presidente della Repubblica?

The current Presidente della Repubblica Italiana is Giorgio Napolitano

11. Who built the first astronomic telescope in 1609?

Galileo Galilei (1564 – 1642)

12. In which city was the first Italian football club founded?

Il primo club di calcio in Italia è stato fondato a Genova nel 1893 (The first Italian football club was founded in Genova in 1893)

13. In many Italian towns there are roads called Via XX Settembre, what does this name commemorate?

Via XX Settembre rammenta il 20 Settembre 1870 quando con l’ingresso dalla breccia di Porta Pia le truppe Italiane entrano a Roma che fino a quel giorno non faceva parte dell’Italia. (Via XX Settembre commemorates the 20th of September 1870 when Italian troops entered Rome through the breech in the city walls near Porta Pia. Until that time, Rome was not part of Italy). See my blog: Breccia di Porta Pia

14. What does the acronym FIAT, used by Italy’s most famous car manufacturer, stand for?

FIAT is the acronym for Fabbrica Italiana Automobili Torino, founded in Torino (Turin) on the 11t of July 1899

15. What is the name of the Venetian traveller who went to China in the 13th century, remaining there for 13 years in the service of the great Khan?

Marco Polo (1254 – 1324)

16. What do Giorgio Armani, Miuccia Prada, and Laura Biagiotti all have in common?

Giorgio Armani, Miuccia Prada, and Laura Biagiotti are all famous Italian fashion designers

17. Which regions produce the following wines: a. Soave, b. Chianti, and c. Marsala?

a. Veneto b. Toscana c. Sicilia

18. What was the name of the population that inhabited the area of Toscana and Lazio before the Romans?

Gli Etruschi (The Etruscans)

19. Which directors made the following films: a. L’Ultimo Tango a Parigi, b. Per un Pugno di Dollari, c. La Dolce Vita?

a. Bernardo Bertolucci b. Sergio Leone c. Federico Fellini

20. The following Italian bridges can be found in Roma, Firenze, Venezia, Verona, and Bassano del Grappa. What are their names?

a. Ponte ScaligeroVerona b. Ponte dei Sospiri (The Bridge of Sighs) – Venezia c. Ponte VecchioFirenze d. Ponte degli AngeliRoma e. Ponte Degli AlpiniBassano del Grappa

So … how well do you know Italy?

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