Posts from July 2010

As I wrote in my last article ‘Al Passo dei Due Santi’, last Sunday my husband, my parents and I went to hear a concert given by the local Alpini choir. Gli Alpini (the Alpines) are an Italian military corps and the oldest active mountain infantry in the world. They are very popular in Italy, seeming in many ways to represent the spirit of the country, so I thought I’d write a few words about them.

Gli Alpini were founded in 1872, just after the unification of Italy, with the aim of defending Italy’s land borders, which more or less follow the natural barrier formed by the Alps. At the time the main danger for the newly formed Italian Kingdom came from France and Austria. In May 1872 Captain Giuseppe Domenico Perrucchetti published an article in the Rivista Militare (Military Magazine), in which he suggested entrusting the defense of the Italian borders to soldiers recruited locally. He argued that these soldiers would be familiar with the terrain and accustomed to the weather, fit for fighting in the mountains, and, because of their connection with the area, more motivated to defend it. Five months after the publication of this article the first 15 alpine units were formed, becoming active on the 15th of October 1872. (we can be organized at times, us Italians!)

Comunque, gli Alpini, per uno di quegli strani scherzi del destino, ebbero il loro battesimo del fuoco in Africa durante la campagna di Eritrea nel 1887! (However, thanks to one of those strange quirks of fate, the Alpini had their baptism of fire in Africa, during the campaign in Eritrea in 1887!) A few years later, in 1911, they took part in the war to capture Libya from the Turks. Their most important action however, took place during La Prima Guerra Mondiale (The First World War), due to the fact that most of the 600 km long Italian frontline ran through the highest peaks of the Alps, the terrain which they were originally trained to defend. Many of the walkways and railroads built by the Alpini during WWI along the steepest cliffs collectively known as la via ferrata (the iron road), are still visited today by climbing enthusiasts.

During La Seconda Guerra Mondiale (The Second World War) the Alpini saw combat as part of the Axis army in France, Africa, Albania, Russia, Yugoslavia and Greece and, of course,  Italy. Their most terrible ordeal took place in Russia, where they were ordered to defend the front on the plains of the Don River. This they held until 1943, when they were encircled by the Soviet Army. At this point, Il Corpo d’Armata Alpino was forced to break the encirclement and to retreat towards the new frontline fighting, along the way, many epic battles, the most famous of which was La Battaglia di Nikolayevka (The Battle of Nikolayevka).

During this campaign and retreat the Alpini suffered horrendous losses with only a small fraction of the troops from the Tridentina, Julia, and Cuneense divisions surviving. For more details see this page: Alpini – Battle of Nikolayevka. Today in Rossosc, the 1942 headquarters of the Corpo d’Armata Alpino, stands a kindergarten which was built by the Alpini  to commemorate their comrades who lost their lives during the Russian campaign, and to promote solidarity between different countries.

to be continued……..

Yesterday my husband and I took my parents to il Passo dei Due Santi (the Pass of the Two Saints) in the Appennino Tosco- Emiliano, located about 10 km west of Pontremoli a volo d’uccello (as the crow flies). The pass lies on the border between the regions of Toscana in the south and Emilia Romagna in the north, but in the 19th century, before the unification of Italy, this was the dividing line between two independent states: il Granducato di Toscana e il Ducato di Parma. This border was once delineated by a series of small standing stones, two of which are still in position in the middle of the pass. These rectangular upright blocks with a curved top, are about 70 cm high, and are engraved on the south face with the letter T (standing for Toscana) capped by a crown, while on the north face the crown is accompanied by the word Parma. On the sides of these stones, the date 1828 is still visible.

Il Passo dei Due Santi is situated at 1398 meters above sea level, in an area known as Zeri in northern Tuscany, and is the location of una stazione sciistica (a ski resort) called Zum Zeri. This is not a famous or fashionable stazione sciistica, but it’s the only one in the Pontremoli area, and in the winter they organize skiing courses. I wonder if I will ever find the courage to put a pair of skies on one day! The resort is very basic, just a rifugio/albergo, a restaurant with a bar, and one shop selling trekking gear, all spread around a big car park, but la vista è incredibile! (the view is incredible!)

To the south the sharp peaks of the Alpi Apuane jut up from the horizon like the teeth of a gigantic saw, and if you look carefully you can just make out the white patches of Carrara marble exposed by the quarries. To their right, looking toward Pisa and Livorno, can be seen the white curve of the coastline and the Mare Tirreno (Tyrrhenian Sea). Further to the west, obscuring il Golfo dei Poeti (the Gulf of the Poets) lies the headland of il Parco di Monte Marcello which flanks la Bocca di Magra (the mouth of the river Magra). Framed between this headland and the Ligurian mountains to the west you get another glimpse of the sea, and suspended in the mist of the far away horizon, almost floating in the sky, si staglia la sagoma di un’isola (the silhouette of an island stands out).

Zeri 

click on photo to enlarge

We were attracted to il Passo dei Due Santi by a concert given by the local coro degli Alpini (Alpini choir). Gli Alpini are a military mountaineering corps famous, aside from their outstanding military service, for their male voice choirs. They sing musica ‘a cappella’, that is, without the accompaniment of musical instruments. We all enjoyed the concert, particularly my father, who used to have an old record of canti degli Alpini (Alpini songs).

After the concert the Alpini and their families went to have lunch at the restaurant, while we sat in the shade of the beech woods just behind la cappella della Madonna della Neve (the chapel of the Madonna of the snow) to have our pranzo al sacco (picnic – literally: lunch in a bag). We got out the two foldable chairs which we had brought along for my parents, then me and Geoff found a convenient log to sit on. We ate our panini al formaggio e pomodoro (cheese and tomato sandwiches) whilst enjoying the fresh breeze and the limpid blue sky. Other people around us were better  organized: they had proper folding tables and chairs, sun loungers, bottles of wine, water and soft drinks, dishes of pasta salad, salame and prosciutto, e tanto altro (and much more), these were serious Italian picnickers! After lunch a nearby party of four set up a little table and started playing cards, while the children inside the bar played calcio balilla (table football).

In the next blog I’ll be writing in a bit more in detail about the Alpini.

A presto….

Meriggiare pallido e assorto
presso un rovente muro d’orto.
To slump at noon thought-sick and pale
under the scorching garden wall.

These opening lines of Montale’s famous poem (here with a translation by Millicent Bell) perfectly evoke the ambience of a hot summer day. I don’t expect to compete with a Nobel prize winner, but I would like to share a few personal images that, for me, represent the summer heat:

tutte le finestre spalancate
all the windows thrown wide open
il profumo del fico riscaldato dal sole
the scent of the fig tree warmed by the sun
il frinire stridente delle cicale
the strident screeching of the cicadas
il rinfrescante mormorio della fontana
the refreshing murmur of the fountain
il ronzio delle api che si dissetano alla fontana
the buzzing of the bees quenching their thirst at the fountain
i rami degli alberi che si piegano sotto il peso della frutta che matura
the tree branches that bow beneath the weight of the ripening fruit
il rosso dei pomodori che occhieggia fra il verde delle piante
the red of the tomatoes peeping through the green of the plants
i gerani brillanti sui balconi
brilliant geraniums on balconies
la frescura della pergola
the cool of the pergola
il dolce sapore dei meloni e le rinfrescanti fette d’anguria
the sweet taste of melons and refreshing slices of watermelon
la gente che si lamenta per il caldo: "come picchia il sole!", "mamma mia, che caldo che fa!"
people complaining about the heat: "how the sun beats down!", "mamma mia, how hot it is!"
l’immobilità dell’aria durante il giorno e la leggera brezza che si alza la sera, permettendoci di dormire
the stillness of the air during the day, and the light breeze that picks up in the evening, allowing us to sleep
il profumo inebriante del gelsomino
the heady perfume of jasmine
il canto gentile dei grilli che ci culla
the gentle chirping of crickets that lulls us to sleep.

Please feel free to share your summer impressions with us.

Il telefono, for some a lifeline, for others a necessary evil. It’s good to be in touch, but sometimes ‘ti viene la voglia di buttarlo dalla finestra!’ (you feel like throwing it out of the window!) Here is a bit of useful telephone vocabulary:

telefonare a qualcunodare un colpo di telefono a qualcuno
chiamare qualcuno
dare uno squillo a qualcuno

rispondere al telefono

il telefonino / il cellulare

il ricevitore

la segreteria telefonica

una scheda telefonica

l’elenco telefonico

le pagine gialle

una cabina telefonica

il prefisso

il numero

sbagliare numero

la linea

occupato

guasto

to phone someoneto give someone a quick ring
to call someone
to give someone a ring

to answer the phone

the mobile phone / the cell phone

the receiver

the answering machine

a phone card

the telephone directory

the Yellow Pages

a phone box

the dialing code

the number

to dial the wrong number

the line

engaged

out of order

Notice that telefonare (to phone) is followed by the preposition a, and chiamare (to call) is followed by the direct object, e.g.:

Giorgio: Hai telefonato a Marco? Lucia: Sì, gli ho telefonato (Giorgio: Have you phoned Marco? Lucia: Yes, I’ve phoned him);

Giorgio: Hai telefonato a tua madre? Lucia: Sì, le ho telefonato (Giorgio: have you phoned your mother? Lucia: Yes, I’ve phoned her).

Giorgio: Hai chiamato Marco? Lucia: Sì, l’ho chiamato (Giorgio: Have you called Marco? Lucia: Yes, I’ve called him).

Giorgio: Hai chiamato tua madre? Lucia: Sì, l’ho chiamata (Giorgio: Have you called your mother? Lucia: Yes, I’ve called her).

Now a few examples of typical phrases and expressions that we use when we speak on the phone:

Il telefono sta suonando/squillando The phone’s ringing
Pronto, chi parla? Hello, who’s speaking?
Pronto, sono Giorgio Hello, it’s Giorgio
Vorrei parlare con Lucia. I’d like to speak to Lucia.
Un attimo che te la / gliela chiamo*. Hold on a moment, I’ll call her for you.
Sì, te la / gliela passo subito Yes, I’ll pass her to you straight away
Sì, un attimo, chi lo/la disidera? Yes, one moment, who wants to speak with him/her?
C’è Maria per favore? Is Maria there please?
Mi dispiace, non c’è. I’m sorry, he/she’s not in.
Vuole lasciare detto qualcosa? Would you like to live a message?
Vuoi che le/gli dica qualcosa? Do you want me to give her/him a message?
Mi scusi, ho sbagliato numero Sorry, I’ve dialed the wrong number
Mi dispiace, ha sbagliato numero I’m sorry, you’ve got the wrong number

* te la chiamo - I’ll call her for you (informal), gliela chiamo - I’ll call her for you (polite).

Practice the vocabulary above on Byki List Central:
http://www.byki.com/lists/Italian/On-the-phone-part-1.html
http://www.byki.com/lists/Italian/On-the-phone-part-2.html

A few days ago I wrote about my morning routine, and my need for una tazzina di caffè to bring me out of the world of dormiveglia. Imagine emerging from bed and stumbling into the bathroom  for your morning ablutions only to see a python pop its head up out of the toilet, now that would certainly wake me up!

Well sometimes truth is stranger than fiction. Here is an abridged version of an article that recently appeared in the newspaper:

Pitone reale sbuca dal water.
Salvato dagli esperti dell’Enpa (Ente Nazionale Protezione Animale).
Il serpente ha messo fuori la testa: panico tra gli inquilini, poi il recupero. Forse gettato di proposito

Royal python pops up out of the toilet. Saved by the Enpa (National Organisation for Animal Protection) experts.
The snake stuck its head out:
Panic amongst the tenants, then the rescue. Possibly thrown in the toilet on purpose.
MILANO – A prima vista ha tutta l’aria della leggenda metropolitana, un po’ come il coccodrillo albino delle fogne di New York. E invece è successo davvero, certificato dalle fotografie e dal referto dei veterinari dell’Enpa di Milano. Milano – At first look it has all the makings of a metropolitan legend, a bit like the albino crocodile in the sewers of New York. But in fact it really happened, certified by the photos and the report of the vets working for Enpa Milano
Il pitone reale nelle tubature di scarico di un condominio c’era davvero, e ha anche rischiato di fare una brutta fine. The royal python really was in the drainpipes of a condominium, and it nearly met a nasty end.
Da qualche giorno qualcosa non andava negli scarichi, e qualcuno ha detto di aver avvistato un serpente. In pochi ci hanno creduto finché lunedì mattina, dal water di uno degli appartamenti, ha fatto capolino proprio un bell’esemplare di pitone reale.  For some days something had been amiss with the drains, and someone said that they had seen a snake. Few had believed it until Monday morning when a lovely example of a royal python poked its head up from the toilet of one of the apartments.
Ha messo fuori la testa un attimo e poi è sparito nuovamente, lasciando attoniti gli occupanti dell’appartamento, che non credevano ai loro occhi. L’avvistamento ha suscitato subito molto scalpore e un po’ di paura tra gli abitanti del palazzo, che hanno chiamato l’Enpa di Milano e un idraulico. It put its head out for a moment, then it disappeared again, leaving the occupants of the apartment astonished, they couldn’t believe their eyes. The sighting immediately created a sensation and a bit of fear amongst the inhabitants of the building, who called Milan’s Enpa and a plumber.
Grazie al tempestivo intervento dell’esperto, il serpente di circa un metro è stato estratto dallo scarico del water e consegnato ai volontari dell’Enpa. Thanks to the speedy response of the expert, the snake, which was about a meter long, was extracted from the drainage tube of the toilet and handed over to the Enpa volunteers.
GETTATO DI PROPOSITO – Non sono ancora state chiarite le modalità con le quali l’animale sia potuto arrivare agli scarichi, anche se purtroppo l’ipotesi più plausibile è quella che qualcuno, per sbarazzarsene, abbia deciso di gettarlo nello scarico, proprio come il leggendario coccodrillo albino. Per fortuna il povero pitone ha combattuto strenuamente la sua battaglia per la vita. THROWN AWAY ON PURPOSE- It’s still not clear how the animal was able to get into the drainage pipes, but unfortunately the most plausible hypothesis is that someone decided to throw it down the toilet in order to get rid of it, just like the legendary albino crocodile.
Luckily the poor python strenuously battled to stay alive.
Dopo essere stato visitato e lavato, il serpente è stato finalmente sistemato al caldo, dove ha ripreso un po’ di calore e vigore. Nei prossimi giorni si potrà valutare se l’avventura sia davvero a lieto fine oppure le sofferenze patite nello scarico possano aver causato danni irreversibili al povero animale. After having been checked out and washed, the snake was finally put in a hot place where it warmed up and came to life a bit. Over the following days it will be possible to evaluate whether the adventure really will have a happy ending, or if the suffering endured in the drains might have caused irreversible damage to the poor animal.
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