Posts from February 2010

The winter Olympics are very important in the Netherlands because it is THE place for the Dutch to show off their favorite olympic sport: speed skating!  As Noortje showed us in a previous post about the Elfstedentocht (link to post on Elfstedentocht) in the Netherlands, the Dutch love skating.  Speed skating is something the Dutch take very seriously, and this year they have a lot to be proud of.  On February 13th, Sven Kramer took the gold in the men’s 5000m speed skating event.  On February 18th, Annette Gerritsen and Laurine van Riessen took the silver and gold in the ladies 1000m speed skating event.  On February 20th, Mark Tuitert took the gold in the men’s 1500m speed skating event.  And on February 21st Ireen Wüst took the gold in the 1500m women’s speed skating event.  A great job from the Dutch team!

Here’s a clip of Sven Kramer discussing his great win on Dutch television. Even if you can’t understand a lot of it, try to listen to the sounds of the words and repeat them yourself. If you are a beginner, also try to figure out where the words begin and end:

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Useful terms for the Winter Olympics:

de wedstrijd : the match, competition

de wedstrijdleiding: the referee, umpire

schaatsen : to skate

de schaats : the skate

de schaatsbaan/de ijsbaan : the (skating) rink

de schaatser : the (male) skater

de schaatsster : the (female) skater

de schaatsijzer : the blade on the skate

de moeite : the effort

de madaille : the medal

de sneeuw : the snow

de ski : the ski

skien : to ski

het snowboard : the snowboard

snowboarden : to snowboard

het ijshockey : the hockey

hockeyen : to play hockey

de rodelaar : the luger

rodelen : to do the luge

kunstrijden : to figure skate

de kunstrijder : the (male) figure skater

de kunstrijdster : the (female) figure skater

A few weeks ago I managed to get out of Amsterdam, which I try to make a regular habit of.  For this trip, I decided to head north, since the last few trips I have taken have landed me in the south.  One of the great things about the Netherlands is just how easy it is to travel because most places are connected by the trains.  I don’t have much nice to say about the trains being on time, especially at rush hour, and especially since there has been so much snow this year, but they will get you from point A to point B…eventually.

So I took my bicycle on the train, with the plan of getting off the train at Enkhuizen, seeing the sites, and cycling from Enkhuizen to Hoorn, which lies just a little ways south.

The weather was absolutely terrible, and I don’t think this did the cutesy little town of Enkhuizen much justice.

Enkhuizen is very old, founded in the mid-14th century, and has a long tradition of being a large port of entry to the Netherlands for ships.  It is home to the Zuiderzeemuseum (http://www.zuiderzeemuseum.nl/) which hosts an outdoor exhibition of ships.  Regrettably, it is closed at this time of year, but the museum was very nice and was showing an exhibit on art featuring the town of Volendam.  Despite the outdoor exhibit area being closed, it was well worth the visit, and the town itself was lovely.  I froze my butt off standing in the wind getting these pictures of the harbor and the town:

While in Enkhuizen, a snow storm rolled in.  But I still cycled from Enkhuizen to Hoorn in the middle of the snow storm.  It actually ended up being pretty fun, although very cold.

Like Enkhuizen, Hoorn is another port city with a long maritime tradition and a relationship with the sea. A long standing testament to its economic influence and activity, Cape Horn still has its name after this city in Noord Holland.  Hoorn is very old, dating back to around the early 8th century, and you can still see the original city gates.  It is one of the largest cities in that area, making it the cultural center for the surrounding area.  In the summer there is a music festival on the main square, there are lots of little places to eat along the harbor, and when the weather isn’t so terribly bad, Hoorn is a great place to sit on a terrace and relax.

If you are a bit familiar with the Dutch culture, you probably heard about Sinterklaas, an old man with a white beard who gives presents to good kids on the night of December fifth. And if you did hear of him, you might also wonder what the difference is between him and Santa Claus, because they kind of look alike and kind of do the same thing, don’t they?

Well, that’s true. And that’s because they both represent the same man. For those who forgot a bit about the history of this old do-gooder, let me refresh your memory in a brief piece of history.

Saint Nicolas was a religious man from Myra, Turkey. As a bishop he meant a lot to the people, especially the poor. Because of his love and dedication to others, the Catholic church gave him the status of saint, and so the name Saint Nicolas came into the world.

On the fifth of December, people celebrate his birthday and his goodness, although his actual birthday is on December the sixth. As you might know, the Sint throws candy, which is also based on his giving nature. He died on the sixth of December in 342. Because he was buried in Italy (then under Spanish control), people say he is from Spain. The history about Sinterklaas’ helpers, the Zwarte Pieten, is not really clear, and the image of this character causes a lot of discussion these days. Some think its racist that they are black, which led to the idea to paint them purple, green, with stripes and dots et cetera.

But I am getting sidetracked. So we had Sinterklaas and emigrants brought this holy man to the United States. Over there Sinterklaas turned into Santa Claus, but it wasn’t until Coca Cola started a huge campaign that he got his worldwide fame. His red and white outfit was based on the logo of this drink. But not every country in the world followed the American creation. An example is Joulupukki, the Finnish character for Santa Claus. Joulupukki is a dwarf and knocks on doors instead of climbing through chimneys. Maybe the chubby Santa Claus and tiny Joulupukki should exchange costumes… But that is another story.

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Geert Mak is a Dutch author and historian who writes mostly about the history of the Netherlands, though has also written quite extensively on European history.  One of the reasons I really like Geert Mak as an author is that his use of language is superb.  His writing is thoughtful and also thought provoking.  If you have a general interest in history, or you want to know a little more about Dutch culture and history, his works are a great place to start.

Last year I read “Amsterdam: A Brief Life of the City,” in English.  At that time my Dutch language skills were not up to the point where I could read and enjoy reading at the same time.  That takes a lot of practice!  This year I can read it in Dutch, and it really has made a huge difference in how much I appreciate this author.  Last year I became infuriated with the book in English.  The English version is fraught with typos, horrendous translation errors, and the occasional sentence consisting of almost nonsense words.  I don’t know how it made it to publication in its current state, but somehow it did, wound up on the shelves, and landed in my lap.  At the time, I knew that Geert Mak came highly recommended by those around me, so I was willing to chalk it up to bad editing and checked out his website after huffing and puffing my way through the book.

http://www.geertmak.nl/

After checking out the site, which is also in English and German, and reading a speech he had given at the time, I came to the conclusion that the author probably wasn’t to blame for this incredible disservice to his writing skills.

Now here I am, a year later, and proof that with a little (okay more honestly A LOT) of time and effort, it is possible to master a language, or at least get pretty far with it.  If you are interested in an overall history of Amsterdam, from the very beginning until now, then you might want to pick up this book.  If you are interested in pushing your Dutch skills a little farther, then I would definitely recommend picking up this book.  It’s not easy.  It’s very literary.  It’s well worth the reward.

In the Netherlands, cycling is not just something fun to do on the weekends, but it is a way of life. For the Dutch, cycling is like breathing: you just do it. But what you may not know is that in the urban centers, cycling can become a real mess if you aren’t sure of what’s going on. Here are a few tips for cycling in the Netherlands that might make your cycling experience a little more fun and a little more safe.

Bicycle paths exist between in the space between the sidewalk and the road. Often times they are clearly marked by an extra white line, or are painted red, but sometimes they aren’t. When you are walking or crossing the road, assume that the area on the side of the road is for cyclists and look twice before walking. Please never step out into the street before checking for a cyclist.  This is really dangerous and annoys the locals. Don’t walk on the side of the road, walk on the sidewalk, unless you want to hear a lot of bicycle bells pinging and angry Dutch words.  In this photo, I was indeed standing in the middle of the bicycle path (fietspad) but I kept nervously looking over my shoulder:

Most traffic crossings have special lights designated for bicycles. They look like a small set of traffic lights that have a bicycle symbol and they hang on the right. Always follow those lights. Do not run red lights. I know, the Dutch people around you will be doing it, but it’s really dangerous and you can in theory get a fine for it if the police see you do it.  If a fine isn’t enough to deter you, bear in mind that your body is no match for a car or tram.

Bicycles have the right of way with cars, pedestrians have the right of way with everything. But I don’t recommend testing your right of way capabilities with taxis. Taxi drivers here are crazy. You know who they are by the blue license plate and if you see one of these speeding along the road, don’t test your luck with them. They don’t always stop, or slow down, and your right of way is not worth defending with your body.

If you’re not sure what to do at an intersection, just walk it. Seriously. There is this intersection I have to traverse frequently and the traffic is a mess, with 6 trams and buses, and crosswalks, and tons of cyclists, and taxis.  There is absolutely no shame in getting off the bicycle and walking, and at this intersection I see Dutch people do it too. Pedestrians have the ultimate right of way at a zebra crossing, and rather than trying to do something tricky and complicated, sometimes it really is best just to walk.

Avoid tram tracks at all costs.  Always cross a tram track so that your tires don’t fall into the tram rails.  This is one of the worst things that could happen to you on a bicycle because your bicycle will be stuck and you will get hurt.  Just remember to cross them at an angle, and you’ll be fine.

The standard Dutch bicycle has no gears and has back pedaling coaster brakes instead of handbrakes on the handlebars. This can be disconcerting at first, though I assure you there is a good reason. With my hands free from being designated to braking, I can carry a ton of stuff while cycling and still stop in time to avoid getting hit by a tram. Most of the rental companies have both styles for rent, so if you have a preference you can find a bicycle you are comfortable with.  Here are some pretty standard Dutch bicycles hanging out in front of the Universiteit van Amsterdam:

Definitely get on a bicycle if you are here. Not only is it great for your health, but it is the best way to see both the cities and the countryside. If you haven’t ridden a bicycle since you were a kid, there are lots of group tours run by professionals who can safely guide you about the city and give you some time to get reacquainted with the bicycle. An added bonus of traveling in a tourist pack is that the locals will know who you are and avoid you at all costs. If you’re a little more daring, just rent a bicycle and see what happens. There is absolutely no better way to see this country than on a bicycle.

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