Posts by admin

Overcoming the Language Barrier: Chinese Hip Hop

Posted by admin

In the 1990s, two cultures crossed paths as they travelled to opposite ends of the earth. In 1993, specifically, nine rappers from New York would release their first album, launching their careers as one of the most commercially successful and critically acclaimed hip hop groups of all time. The Wu Tang Clan (named after the mountain Wu Dang in central China) were heavily influenced by Chinese culture and martial arts mythology, giving them a style and a sound which infiltrated popular culture through music, films, and fashion for many years to come.

At roughly the same time, hip hop was leaving American shores and making its way to mainland China. Although hip hop in China began to manifest itself during the early ‘80s, it was almost purely an imitation of the US import, with artists rapping in English rather than in their own languages. This began to change with the arrivals of American hip hop connoisseurs like Kyle Ching an  Dana Burton, whose influence helped Chinese artists to adapt and create a style of their own.

Rhythm & Rhyme

As hip hop began to creep its way into microphones across China, the rapping was mostly done in English. For a long time it was believed that Chinese wasn’t a suitable language to rap with, using drastically sentence structuring and rhythm patterns quite different from English, with the main obstacle being that Chinese is a tonal language, where words change meaning according to the pitch used for each syllable. [view video]

But according to Detroit-native Dana Burton, the one responsible for bringing rap-battling overseas and who is now considered the godfather of hip hop in China, this is no longer the case:

“I’ve actually come to like these Chinese battles more than the stuff going on at home in America. It’s a totally different direction they’re taking it, with the rhyming skills and the wordplay and how they perform. The energy level is much more intense with Chinese rap. There are more theatrics. The flow is faster. They’re rhyming words at a faster pace. And they’re starting now to use rhythm a bit more.”
Shanghai Rap Battle - Iron Mic Semifinals 2007 [view video]:

For the love of the music

The fledgling hip hop scene in China resembles the pre-bling golden era of its American counterpart. With fewer radio stations than the US and even fewer who are willing to play anything other than pop and rock, there simply aren’t millions of dollars to be made as a Chinese hip hop artist. As a result you won’t hear rappers bragging about their pimped out rides, their diamond-studded gold chains or their bottles of Crystal, because they just don’t have all the materialistic stuff associated with American hip hop these days. Instead you’ll hear from people who love the music without the fame and fortune, and you’ll hear the type of hip hop that used to exist when the streets influenced the rappers and not the other way around.

Polite Hip Hop

As is the nature of most Chinese art, Chinese hip hop is a reflection of their culture, as opposed to the western obsession with the self. Often referred to as “polite hip hop,” Chinese artists are more prone to rap about the monotonies of everyday life, love, and even food. It’s extremely rare to hear profane lyrics about drugs, violence, and racial oppression. Then again, theirs is not a musical genre that was forged in the fires of systematic and institutional racism, broken homes, drug-infested neighborhoods, a lack of well paying jobs, police misconduct, and inadequate educational facilities in the same way American hip hop was born. [view video]

The following song is rapped using a dialect from the province of Sichuan [view video]:

Here’s a sample of the lyrics translated to English:

You do not have real ability, why must you be a singer?
You think you sing something and you think you are smart.
With the spotlight on the stage, you go mad and you are taken bad
I say dude, you should consider others’ mood
Facing your fans, you should be honest and conscientious
Do not stay there wordily
Those children are simple
To be an idol, you need to control your words and actions
You do not have the real strength/ability, do not come out to show off
Do not be too arrogant, do not use abusive words to insult others’ mothers
In conclusion, do not pretend to be famous, do not show your authority, do not be huffish
Do not think you are a star or feel you have some international reputation, even if your pictures are on global section of entertainment magazines
You need to change, change, change, but must not be conscienceless
Do not lose the face of Chinese (do not let others feel ashamed of Chinese because of your behaviours)
Do not think you are somebody because you have some powerful backers

While the song shares the American rap tradition of “dissing” another MC, the lyrics emphasize respect for the music and the fans. The song promotes improvement as a person and as an artist, and is less interested in hurling nasty, violent insults at one another. Chinese hip hop is often accused of being weak and soft and too polite. This is naturally a western point of view, coming from people who don’t understand that politeness, respect, patience, and love, constitute many of the foundations of Chinese art and culture.

 

On the Bargain Road

Posted by admin

One of my more embarrassing moments as a student of Chinese came not here in China but back in Maine in the fall of 1998, when I returned from a year in Beijing to the University of Maine at Farmington along with a teacher from the Chinese department of Beijing University of Technology. As I’d known this professor prior to her year as a visiting scholar, I’d taken it upon myself to act as her guide, driver, and concierge while in the US, at least when I had the time and wasn’t otherwise involved in my studies. It was a good arrangement for us both, as I was able to keep my Chinese skills up to snuff and she was able to get out and do some shopping in a country where car ownership is pretty much essential. I was unprepared, however, for just how much of her Chinese heritage she’d brought with her. I had dropped of Wang laoshi in a box clothing store while I went to do some groceries, returning 10 or 15 minutes later. To my everlasting horror, when I walked up to her, I found her engrossed in a conversation with the clerk, not talking about sizes or fits or styles; no, she was bargaining!

Bargaining in China is one of those skills that’s essential for survival here. The Chinese bargain at vegetable stands, grocery stores, restaurants… pretty much everywhere. In some places, bargaining isn’t just recommended, it’s expected. Places sometimes have signs in English reading “No Bargaining! All Prices are Final!” although such signs are more often than not simply another tactic at getting the highest possible price. And while the China of 1998 certainly is much different from the China of 2008, bargaining is still very much part of the accepted practice and being lihai at bargaining is a skill which will never let you down. Let’s take a look at a couple different examples.

Of the commercial enterprises that somehow manage to make the tourist’s guide to Beijing, at the top of the list are Silk Street (which used to be an actual street near the American embassy but is now in a building) and the hongqiao pearl market. With the disproportionate number of tourists who visit these places, looking for knockoff goods from Prada purses to iPods, come disproportionate prices. What goes through the storekeepers mind the moment they lay eyes on you is what will determine the opening price on that knockoff Columbia jacket you’ve got your eyes on. If you are a local, you’ll get their cheapest opening offer. If you’re a Chinese but from another part of China (speak with an accent), you’ll get their second lowest offer. If you’re a foreigner with semi-fluent to fluent Chinese who has obviously lived or spent a lot of time in China (and consequently should know about what these things ought to cost), you’ll get their third lowest opening price. Lastly, if you are a bumbling foreigner who uses lots of hand signs and the calculator (omnipresent) to bargain, you’re going to get the hose, as whatever is being offered will already be offered at a price somewhat cheaper than you can have it – the authentic deal, keep in mind – in the U.S. It’s just the way it is. Keeping a few things in mind, however, will keep you from getting soaked.

First, if you are the Olympic tourist straight off the plane and negotiate in broken English because it sounds more Chinese-y, and you’re shopping at the Silk Market, your opening price is going to be about 8 – 10 times more than the shopkeeper would be willing to accept. This, actually, can even pertain to standard foreigners even if they speak Chinese. The Silk Market just operates this way.

For example:

Ryan: How much for this jacket?

Shopkeeper: This jacket? It’s of the highest quality, a really nice jacket.

Ryan: Yes, but how much?

Shopkeeper: If you want it, because you speak such amazing Chinese, I’m going to give it to you for a very low price. It’s 1200 RMB.

Ryan, laughing: You must be joking. I’ll give you 50 RMB.

Shopkeeper: You are trying to insult me? I could never accept such a price. But since you are such an old hand at this, I will let you take it for 700RMB.

Ryan: I like the jacket, and I like you, but I could not live with myself if I gave more than 100 RMB for this jacket. It’s obviously a fake.

Shopkeeper: Fake? No, it’s the real thing. Never mind that the tag says Ralph Lauren and the logo is North Face. But listen, you know about these clothes, so for you, I’m going to give you the special price of 450 RMB.

Ryan: No, no, no. I could not possibly go higher than 150 RMB, and only then because you are such a friendly person.

This could go on and on until a price is reached, usually about 75% off the original starting price. And granted, this is an extreme example as it is using xiushui and hongqiao, two of the most overpriced haggle-marts in Beijing, home to some of the more aggressive sales tactics seen outside of timeshare sales. It sounds ridiculous in English, but it is all part of the game, and in Chinese can even be fun. For the unaccustomed Westerner, it just takes some time to get used to, especially when trying to shave a few jiao off the price of market tomatoes. In the end, you will inevitably come away thinking that you could have gotten it down a little bit. A rule of thumb is that if the shopkeeper seems somewhat irritated with you after arriving at a price the both of you could accept, then you got a good deal. And even if you didn’t, remember, the price agreed to was acceptable to the both of you, even if both consumer and seller seem a little peeved.

Returning to Wang laoshi in the clothing store back in Maine, as I stood there completely mortified watching the manager come out from the back office to undoubtedly explain the way things operated here in the United States, I began to contemplate intervention. You could imagine my shock when instead of booting the both of us from the premises with a command to never return, the manager actually agreed to knocking a few dollars off the prices printed on the price tag there in the store. While I don’t think I could bring myself to going bargain hunting in a U.S. department store, my already high respect for Chinese fortitude and bargaining skills shot up considerably.

Here’s an interesting article for some further reading on what negotiating in China is all about.
http://www.jazzviolin.com/china/2007/09/29/buying-things-how-to-negotiate-bargaining-in-china/

Useful Words and Phrases:

厉害 This is one of those words that can be interpreted in many different ways and really has no direct translation into English except in the context you’re working with. Here’s the definition direct from www.nciku.com, one of the better Chinese/English/Chinese dictionaries on the Net.
1. (of a wild animal or of one’s temper , words , etc .) fierce ; terrible
2. (of a person ) strict ; stern ; harsh
3. (of illness , heat , cold , etc .) intense ; severe ; terrible
4. heavily

秀水市场 Silk Street Market
红桥市场 The Pearl Market
太贵了! It’s too expensive!
这是假的 This is fake
给我便宜一点儿 Can you make it any cheaper?
买不买? Will you buy it?

 

Park Life

Posted by admin

When spring rolls around in Beijing, it means more than just the appearance of green  after months of grey and early darkness, more than singing birds and flowers and the occasional rain shower.  To old school Beijinger’s, springtime means the beginning of park time, and Beijing’s many parks begin to show signs of life after barely stirring during the winter months.
There are a million reasons to go to Beijing’s parks for the average city resident, myself included.  Chief among those reasons is the desire to see the color green and to escape the seemingly inescapable hum of the city, blaring of cars, and squash of teeming people so omnipresent throughout the city.   Whether they are free or it’s necessary to pay a few jiao for a ticket, once inside a city park, the atmosphere outside just melts away. It’s no wonder that parks are such a popular place for the elderly, who seem to show up in them at the crack of dawn and don’t leave until past dark.  On a day where it just makes sense to get out of the city – without actually getting out of the city – a retreat to Ritan, Beihai, or Xiangshan seems to make perfect sense.  And seeing the types of activities that go on in the parks in the spring and summer months makes them all the more interesting to visit.
Read More »

 

The Mother of All Tests

Posted by admin

Things that China lacks: oil, a decent network of highways, a quality control system for food and drugs, clean air in its cities.  One thing that China absolutely does not lack: people.  Everywhere you go in China, with the exception of some of the more sparsely populated Western provinces, you can’t help but feel surrounded by humanity.  From the early hours of the morning until late in the evening, Chinese cities are teeming with them, from the very young to the very old. But spend any time in Beijing or elsewhere and you’ll begin to notice the absence of one particular age group: kids from middle school to high school age.  During the school year, if you see them, they are either on their way to school or on their way home.  Kids in this age group have school for about 6 hours per day, then have an average of 6 hours of homework every night. When Chinese students reach the age of 10 or so, they simply vanish, not to reappear until after they’ve sat for the test that will determine pretty much their entire future – their career, their financial status, everything.  Just imagine that the 8-10 years of primary school through high school is nothing more than preparation for a two-day exam, known as the gaokao, with the direction of your life hanging in the balance.  Each year, millions of high school kids complete the test in competition for a place in the countries universities, institutions which can accommodate only about 60% of their numbers.  Now that’s pressure.

If you want to read more about this test of tests, check out this excellent article by Manuela Zoninsein in Slate.

 

Examining the Chinese Menu

Posted by admin

The first thing you learn: nobody’s even heard of General Tsao’s chicken. Negative on the tangerine chicken as well, and the shrimp lo mein is nowhere to be found. The good news is, there’s mooshu pork a plenty, but if you’re going to survive for very long, you’d better have some idea of what to expect in your typical Chinese greasy spoon, especially if you’re a student, on a budget, or otherwise trying to fit into the average Chinese person’s daily routine.

Within hours of a Beijing arrival, or arrival anywhere in the north of China for that matter, a visit to a typical Chinese restaurant could be the first place outside of your accommodations on your sightseeing agenda, and a glance at the menu won’t bring back memories of the takeout place back home, places that, if I memory serves me correctly, are invariably called “Great Wall” or “Ming Garden” or some variation thereof, all promising a tasty bounty of inedible red food of which you will eat approximately half. No, the real deal is much less hygienic, and certainly not FDA certified. That said, real Chinese food bears very little resemblance to the scrumptious cuisine served in the U.S. and elsewhere in the Western world, and in this reviewer’s opinion, is much the better for it.
Read More »