A Little Bit of Review

Posted by sasha

Having already posted six videos to the blog, I think it’s best that I take some time to go over the vocabulary and sentence structures that were introduced in said videos.  When studying a foreign language, it’s a good idea to go over your classes (复习功课 – fù xí gōng kè) every so often to make sure you fully understand what you have learned.  That being said, let’s start from the beginning. For this post, I’ll review my first three videos.

VIDEO POST #1 – “A Rainy Day in Beijing” (北京的雨天)

For the first video post, I took a tour of the Beijing Planning and Exhibition Hall.  Although I prefer the great outdoors, the weather kept me inside on that particular day.  Speaking of weather, the first phrase I introduced was today is a rainy day (今天是雨天 -jīn tiān shì yǔ tiān). Let’s break that down to understand it more…

今天 – jīn tiān – today

是 – shì – to be/is

雨天 – yǔ tiān – rain day

As I mentioned before, Chinese is a language without articles, so there is no word for “a”.  Also, to describe the weather, you simply say rain/wind/snow/cloud + day.  In English, you have to use a different word (rainy, windy, snowy, cloudy), but this is not necessary in Chinese.

The next phrase was “it’s the weekend, so I don’t want to stay at home” (这是周末, 所以我不想呆在家里- zhè shì zhōu mò, suǒ yǐ wǒ bù xiǎng dāi zài jiā lǐ).

这是 – zhè shì – this is

周末 – zhōu mò – weekend

所以 – suǒ yǐ – so

我不想 – wǒ bù xiǎng- I don’t want (lit. I no want)

呆 – dāi – stay

在家里 – zài jiā lǐ – at home inside

That’s a big sentence, so it’s best to break it down piece by piece.  This sentence actually translates pretty well from English to Chinese, so it shouldn’t be too hard to understand.  The phrase “在家里 – zài jiā lǐ” is very useful, as it is a good example of how to describe location.  The word 在 means “at” or “again”, 家 means “home” or “family”, and 里 means “inside.”  Given the context, the three characters combined mean “at home inside.”  Since it was the weekend, I wasn’t too keen on staying inside, and that’s why I used this phrase!

Since it was a rainy day, I said “I have my umbrella and my rain coat” (我有我的雨伞和我的雨衣 – wǒ yǒu wǒ de yǔ sǎn hé wǒ de yǔyī).  Again, this sentence translates pretty directly, so it’s not too difficult to break down.

我有 – wǒ yǒu – I have

我的 – wǒ de – my/mine

雨伞 – yǔ sǎn – umbrella

和 – hé – and

雨衣 – yǔ yī – rain coat

Prepared to head out into the rain, I said “Let’s go!” (我们走吧 – wǒ men zǒu ba).  我们 can mean “we” or “us”, 走 can mean “walk” or “move”, and 吧 is used to make a suggestion.  吧 is a very useful character to know, as you’ll hear it very often in China.  When you combine these words, you are saying “let’s go”, and you can use this to motivate your lazy friends who don’t want to get off the couch…

Another very useful phrase used in this post was Qianmen subway station (前门地铁站 – qián mén dì tiě zhàn).  When telling a taxi driver which subway stop you want to go to, it’s quite simple.  First, say the name of the stop.  In this case, it would be 前门.  Then, say the Chinese for “subway” – 地铁.  Finally, say the word for “station” – 站.  This last character is also useful when you are looking for a gas station (加油站 – jiā yóu zhàn).

Before we move on to the second video, let’s review one more phrase.  Inside the Exhibition Hall, you definitely realize that Beijing is a very big city (北京是非常大的城市 – Běi jīng shì fēi cháng dà de chéng shì).

北京是 – Běi jīng shì – Beijing is

非常 – fēi cháng – very/extremeley

大的 – dà de – big

城市 – chéng shì – city

In this sentence, I used 非常 to represent “very” or “extremely”.  This word is basically a step up from 很 (hěn).  Think of it this way… In English, you could say something is “very big”, and you could also say something is “huge.”  By using 非常 here, I am pretty much saying that Beijing is huge.  Speaking of big, one of the easiest Chinese characters to learn is 大.  In this sentence, I added the particle 的, which is used because I said “Beijing is a very big city.”  If I just wanted to say “Beijing is very big”, I could just say 北京很大 (Běijīng hěn dà).  Together, 大的 is used to show that it is a big city.

VIDEO POST #2 – “Summer Has Already Arrived (夏天已经来了)”

For the second video, I got outside to show some of the many fun summer activities in Beijing.  To start, I said “In Beijing, summer has already arrived” (在北京夏天已经来了 – zài běi jīng xià tiān yǐ jīng lái le).

在北京 – zài běi jīng – in/at Beijing

夏天 – xià tiān – summer

已经 – yǐ jīng – already

来 – lái – come

了 – le – used after an action that has taken place

Most of those translations are self-explanatory, so let’s focus on the combination of 来 and 了.  Used by itself, the word 来 means “come” or “happen.”  When we attach 了, we show the past tense form of the verb, so the two together can translate to “came” or “arrived.”  For example, every time I get to the home of my private students, the kids will yell” 老师来了! (lǎo shī lái le)”, which means “Teacher has arrived!”

Due to the scorching hot temperature, I said “The weather is getting hotter and hotter” (天气越来越热 – tiān qì yuè lái yuè rè).

天气 – tiān qì – weather

越来越 – yuè lái yuè – more and more

热 – rè – hot

I introduced this vocabulary mainly because the phrase 越来越 is quite useful.  My hope is that my videos will help your Chinese get better and better (你的中文越来越好 – nǐ de zhōng wén yuè lái yuè hǎo).

As you probably noticed in this video, I used the word 玩 (wán) quite a bit. This is a great word to know, as it literally translates to “play.”

牌戏 – wán pái xì – play cards

玩跳棋 – wán tiào qí – play checkers

玩毽子 -wán jiàn zi – play Chinese hackey-sack

If you like to have fun like I do, 玩 is a great word to know.  Very often, my neighbors will ask me, “Where are you going?” (你去哪 – Nǐ qù nǎ), to which I will simply respond, “To play” (去玩 – qù wán).  It should be noted that, since I live in Beijing, I attach an “r” to the end of lots of words, so wán is actually pronounced wánr.

In the first video, I talked about how Beijing is really big.  Well, since we already learned the word for “big”, we might as well learn the word for “small.”

小狗 – xiǎo gǒu – small dog

This one is super easy – 小 means small, and 狗 means dog.

Finally, I showed one of the most popular activities in Beijing – singing and dancing (歌舞 – gē wǔ).  In Chinese, the word “sing” is 唱歌 (chàng gē) and “dance” is 跳舞 (tiào wǔ).  As we all know, singing and dancing go hand in hand, so when you talk about doing both, you simply shorten the phrase and say 歌舞.

VIDEO POST #3 – The Summer Palace (颐和园)

For the third post, I took a trip to the beautiful Summer Palace (颐和园 – yí hé yuán), which is probably my favorite place in Beijing.  As you’ve probably realized by now, Beijing has many tourist attractions. For example, the Forbidden City and the Temple of Heaven (北京有很多名胜. 比如故宫、和天坛等. – Běijīng yǒu hěn duō míng shèng. Bǐ rú gù gōng, hé tiān tán děng).

北京有 – Běijīng yǒu – Beijing has

很多 – hěn duō – very many

名胜 – míng shèng – tourist attractions/famous places

比如 – bǐ rú – for example

故宫 – gù gōng – Forbidden City

天坛等 – tiān tán děng – Temple of Heaven

Again, there is a lot of useful vocabulary contained in this sentence.  The word 多 (duō) means “many” or “more.”  The opposite is 少 (shǎo), which means “few” or “less.”  When you combine these words, you get one of the most useful phrases in Chinese, 多少钱?(duō shǎo qián) which means “How much?”, as in “How much does it cost?”  It is sort of a funny translation, as it means “more less money”, but sometimes languages just don’t translate directly…

At one point in the video, I found a guy enjoying an afternoon nap (午睡 – wǔ shuì).  If you are planning on visiting or living in China, you should get yourself ready by participating in the custom of taking a rest after lunch.  Time permitting, people in China love to take a short nap in the afternoon.  Maybe it’s because they wake up at 5 a.m., or maybe it’s because of all the MSG in the food.  Either way, who doesn’t love a good nap?

Before we call it quits for today, let’s review one more phrase - Chinese traditional instruments (中国传统的乐器 – zhōng guó chuán tǒng de yuè qì).

中国 – zhōng guó – China

传统 – chuán tǒng – tradition

乐器 – yuè qì – instrument

Obviously, it is pretty important to know the name of the country in the local language.  中国 literally means “middle country,” and it seems to be a pretty fitting name these days, as not a day goes by where China is not in the headlines.  In a country that has thousands of years of history, there are obviously tons of traditions.  Whether it be eating dumplings (饺子 – jiǎo zi) or drinking tea (茶 – chá), there are plenty of things that China has been doing for a long, long time, and will continue to do long into the future.

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Summer in Beijing is Too Much Fun (北京的夏天是太有意思了)

Posted by sasha

With the summer winding down, I felt the urge to share some more of the many great summer activities available in and around Beijing for my last post of August.  For this video, follow me through some of Beijing’s local parks, a water park, and head out to the Yellow Sea to enjoy the warm weather while it lasts.

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北京的夏天是太有意思了
běi jīng de xià tiān shì tài yǒu yì si le
Summer in Beijing is too much fun.

秋天
qiū tiān
autumn

做运动
zuò yùn dòng
do sports/exercise

打篮球
dǎ lán qiú
play basketball

打台球
dǎ tái qiú
play billiards

打乒乓球
dǎ pīng pāng qiú
play ping pong

打羽毛球
dǎ yǔ máo qiú
play badminton

攀岩墙
pān yán qiáng
rock climbing wall

租一辆三人自行车
zū yī liàng sān rén zì xíng chē
rent a three person bicycle

游泳
yóu yǒng
swim

老人
lǎo rén
elders

水画
shuǐ huà
water painting

免费健身园
miǎn fèi jiàn shēn yuán
free exercise park

水上公园
shuǐ shàng gōng yuán
water park

骑驴, 山羊,还是骆驼
qí lǘ, shān yáng, hái shì luò tuo
ride a donkey, goat, or a camel

打沙滩排球
dǎ shā tān pái qiú
play beach volleyball

踢足球
tī zú qiú
play soccer

晒斑
shài bān
sunburn

杂技演员
zá jì yǎn yuán
acrobat

去海滩
qù hǎi tān
go to the beach

水上运动
shuǐ shàng yùn dòng
water sport

玩在沙
wán zài shā
play in the sand

游泳衣
yóu yǒng yī
bathing suit

烧烤聚会
shāo kǎo jù huì
barbecue

吃海鲜
chī hǎi xiān
eat seafood

围绕篝火舞蹈
wéi rào gōu huǒ wǔ dǎo
dance around the bonfire

音乐椅
yīn yuè yǐ
musical chairs

手持的小烟花
shǒu chí de xiǎo yān huā
small hand-held fireworks

该跳舞了
gāi tiào wǔ le
Time to dance!

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Everything But the Table: Silk Road Cuisine (丝路饭-西安), Xi’an

Posted by Steve

After braving the mountains, plains and deserts of Xinjiang and Gansu province, we find ourselves in relatively modernized Shanxi province 山西 (shān ) where Han Chinese culture dominates. This is the land of dumplings, where pork is king. Casting aside our staples of lamb, yak and naan bread, we’re now in the “real” China, which means “real” Chinese food. Good thing too, because after weeks along the Silk Road, I needed some old-fashioned 中国饭.

The Land of Pork and Dumplings (猪肉跟饺子)

After pulling into Xi’an, I’d had enough lamb–period. The first thing I wanted was a dish with beef or pork. Luckily Xi’an is home to my favorite Chinese dish: dumplings or 饺子 (jiǎo zi) and does dumplings like nowhere else in the world. Finding the nearest 饺子馆 (dumpling house), I order up a half kilo of 猪肉白菜 (pork and cabbage) dumplings and reintroduced my stomach to pork and all its glory.

Xi’an is famous for its dumplings–not one particular kind–but all of them. This is because Xi’an is home to the “dumpling banquet”, a veritable feast of every imaginable mixture of meats, veggies, spices and sauces, all laid out for one very hungry customer. The sheer volume of dumplings, coupled with the rainbow-like array of colors, makes sitting down to a dumpling banquet one unforgettable experience. Just make sure you don’t absolutely stuff yourself to the point of immobility (been there, done that).

You know you’ve completed your trip along the Silk Road, when you find yourself amidst a pile-up of steaming plates crowding your elbow room. Everywhere you look it’s dumplings, dumplings, dumplings. A standing army of ready to please your palate. That’s just China’s way of saying “中国欢迎你” or ”Welcome to China”. It feels good to be back.

Not enough pork? Well just look around you and you’ll find it everywhere, be it in 猪肉拉面 (pork with pulled noodles), on sticks of 串, or in sandwich form as 肉家馍 (ròujiámó) sandwiches. Think of them as China’s Philly-Cheesesteak, just without the cheese or steak. It’s a mix of marinated and chopped up pork with onions and peppers, wedged between a flattened bun (包面). Watch 肉家馍 being prepared:

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It’s making me salivate just watching her chop all that pork up… But getting back into traditional Chinese dishes would require a little bit of adjustment as my stomach was quick to point out. “What’s the deal with all this oil, MSG and pork that you’ve been stuffing me with,” it seemed to be saying amidst trips to the bathroom. My stomach hadn’t made the transition back and was paying the price for it. Luckily I could ease my queasiness with simple, plain-old white rice.

A Million Grains of Rice

Now that's more like a Chinese dinner.

While in Xinjiang and Gansu, 米饭 ( fàn) or white rice, was not served with every meal, as it is in the rest of China. Noodles and bread replaced rice as a means of starch in these areas, due mainly to ethnic and cultural preferences. This means for about two weeks, I didn’t have a single bowl of rice and felt as though I was going into withdrawal.

That all changed when we pulled into Xi’an. Accompanying every meal there was huge pot of steamed rice, not to mention various congees (rice soup porridge) for breakfast. It felt good to be eating rice again, and clearly was appreciate by my stomach, which had grown accustomed to having rice with every meal.

By the end of our stay in Xi’an I felt as though I’d eaten a million grains of rice, effectively acclimating myself back to Han Chinese food. My stomach had logged a lot of travel hours and digested a lot of strange things. The best way to cope: comfort food. Homecoming never tasted so good!

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Everything but the Table: Silk Road Cuisine (丝路饭), Xinjiang and Gansu

Posted by Steve

After completing our Silk Road adventure, I thought I’d sit back and let my stomach do a little reflection on the tastes and textures of food along the Silk Road. Because of Buddhist and Muslim influences that spread through Xinjiang (新疆) and Gansu (甘肃) province, this first batch of Silk Road food will focus less on traditional Han Chinese dishes, and instead on Pan-Asian cuisine including spices and flavors unknown to most westerners. So let’s get down to it, 吃吧!

Lamb (羊肉)

What are you lookin at?

So how do Muslim Chinese people deal with a country that’s fanatical for pork? BAAAAh. 羊肉 (yáng ròu) or lamb is your answer. It is the meat staple of western China (other than delicious yaak which will be covered shortly) and seems present in every dish (sorry vegetarians). Why so much lamb? Well take a look around you. There isn’t much vegetation or grassland. All you see is craggy peaks, rugged landscapes and small shrub brush–a natural habitat for goats. Also consider this: a goat’s plant biomass (what they consume) to meat efficiency is much greater than that of cows, pigs or other large livestock. They can cover large areas of rough terrain, foraging off of the most basic of shrub plants and prarie grasses without much cost to the shepherd.

Goats are ideal for this terrain and vegetation, plus they provide more than just meat–their lambs’ wool keeps the locals from freezing during the winters. So naturally, you’ll bump into a few goats as you traverse Xinjiang and Lake Karakul.

Like I mentioned earlier, lamb is in almost everything (and definitely served at every meal). Most commonly you find lamb in 拉面 ( miàn) or pulled noodles, which are served in a steaming lamb broth and accompanied by thin slices of lamb shank, cilantro, peppers and a variety of spices. For a previous post on 拉面, pulled noodles click here. If you like it nice and spicy, you can add 辣椒 ( jiāo) or hot pepper flakes/sauce by the spoonful. Making 拉面,pulled noodles:

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Then there is the ubiquitous 羊肉串儿 (yángròu chuàner) or lamb kebabs (meat on a stick). While very popular throughout China (and a staple of late night bar-hoppers), 串 started as a central asian food stuff. And the way they do lamb chuan here is incredible. Chunks of lamb shank are spaced between chunks of fat that sizzle, melt and absorb the flavor of the meat, spices and peppers. Anytime, be it day or night, you can throw a couple 块 the way of a street vendor and have yourself a tasty snack.

The nightlife in Kashgar is all about, grabbing a dozen or so 羊肉串s, a couple of beers and a deck of cards as you chat, eat and drink with your 朋友s in the cool evening air. It truly is carnivore heaven!

Yet the Xinjiang love for lamb extends past noodles and kebabs. One of my favorite surprises eating in Kashgar, was eating these oven-cooked, lamb pastry puffs simply called 羊包 (yángbāo). Imagine a small pastry of naan-like bread (we’ll get to naan later), filled with ground lamb, onions and pepper, that are cooked in circular metal kilns and then imagine you are starving and have just been on a bus for ten hours. Sound pretty tasty now, right? These “lamb puffs” were lifesavers during my stay in Kashgar.

Feeling hungry?Just walk up to a vendor with cash out and he’ll already be reaching into the oven with a pair of ridiculously long chopsticks to pull out your snack. Just watch out, they are extremely hot!

While I wasn’t a big fan of lamb going into this Silk Road trip, I quickly was won over after eating Chinese and Turkic preparation styles of mutton. That being said, living off of lamb alone, and eating it with every dish does take its toll on your 肚子 (stomach). After two weeks of lamb, I wanted something new if only to get the taste of lamb out of my mouth.

Yak (牦牛)

牦牛 (máo niú) or Yaak is simply delicious. It treads that fine line between steak and pork–lean, yet somehow fatty. The translation of 牦牛 literally means “hairy/furry cow”. A very apt translation if you ask me. Did I mention how logical of a language Chinese is?

After only lamb in Kashgar and Urumqi, Xia He and Lake Karakul were of a different mentality. Sure there were lamb running around everywhere, and there were some lamb dishes, but for us foreigners, who haven’t experienced life on the great plains, we had to try yak–in all of it’s forms. I didn’t expect much, but was surprised by the flavor from these hairy hulks.

Yak butter...absolutely terrible, but one must be a good guest.

Yak is considered somewhat of a delicacy and clearly we were being treated to something special. There was yak milk or 牦牛奶 (máo niú nǎi), yaak butter and yak yogurt…all of which I would not feed to my worst of enemies. Yak dairy, like yak, is very very fatty, and is similar to drinking butter-milk. Worse yet, when mixed with alcohol, it somehow manages heighten, not suppress, the flavor of 白酒 (grain liquor) while still feeling like you drank a stick of butter. 恶心!

But what really stood out for me, was the yak stew, a hearty mixture of potatoes, chunks of yak grizzle, gravy sauce and peppers. As the cold and 30 mph winds cut into us, this rib-sticking meal kept us warm and in high spirits. I think the Irish would really fit in well here, living of this diet of “meat and potatoes” and grain liquor “yak milk bombs”. The food fits the environment as such a high calorie diet is necessary out here on the open plains. So I say to you: Yak it up!

Naan (馕)

Local naan (馕) vendors.

For those non-carnivores (or fans of bread), western China has got your covered. Naan bread, or 馕 (náng), is a round, flattened bread, originally from central Asia. It is coated in a slight oil, salt and some chili pepper flakes and is served fresh out of the oven. Just like kebabs and pulled noodles, naan vendors are serving their craft everywhere at anytime. A loaf (think pizza crust) is only a few 块,and will rid you of the rumble in your stomach.

While delicious just by itself naan works best as a compliment to a Xinjiang meal, as naan is perfect for soaking up soup broth, can be used to make a “lamb sandwich” or my personal favorite: “uighur pizza”, which involves heaping 辣子鸡丁 sauce all over the naan, and then helping yourself to a slice. I think I know where Marco Polo got the whole pizza idea thing from.

Now that is one happy 老外!

Check out some pictures below (not for the squeamish):

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Some Useful Travel Phrases

Posted by sasha

As is required by my year long, multiple entry, 90 days at a time visa (签证 – qiān zhèng) for China (I know, it seems complicated, doesn’t it?), I have to vacate the premises every three months and head out of the country.  This time around, I managed to find a great deal on flights to Seoul (首尔 – shǒu ěr), so I opted for the quick two-hour flight to South Korea (韩国 – hán guó) in favor of the 24 hour train ride to Hong Kong (香港 – xiāng gǎng).  Seeing as how my students are all Koreans (我的学生都是韩国人 – wǒ de xué shēng dōu shì hán guó rén), it only seemed fitting that I finally take a trip to the ROK (Republic of Korea).

Despite the fact that I can’t speak any Korean (韩语- hán yǔ), it’s been quite easy to get by here.  In contrast to Beijing, most people can speak English here.  Plus, there are taxis that are actually designated as “foreigner only” with English speaking drivers, and free interpretation services are available in other cabs.  That being said, in my week here, I have had my fair share of language barrier moments.  Traveling in Korea as a complete newbie brings me back to my first few weeks in China – the hand gestures, the frustrations, and the “excuse me, do you speak English?” moments.

Due to the fact that I am very sleepy (我很困 – wǒ hěn kùn) and I have a flight (航班 – háng bān) to catch in a matter of hours, I’m going to keep this post short and sweet and offer up a few useful travel phrases for you if you happen to find yourself traveling in China.  In my experiences traveling this great country, I find these phrases to be the most useful:

MONEY

How much (does it cost)?  – 多少钱 – duō shǎo qián : When traveling in China, and anywhere else for that matter, this is incredibly useful.

Can it be cheaper? – 便宜点吧 - pián yi diǎn ba : When shopping in China, bargaining is a must.  Use this phrase to your advantage so you don’t get ripped off.

IN A TAXI

Please take me to ____ – 请带我去 ____ – qǐng dài wǒ qù _____ : When you get in a taxi, say this and fill in the blank with your preferred destination.  If you don’t have confidence in your ability to pronounce the name correctly, print out the address and say “请带我到这个地址 – qǐng dài wǒ dào zhè ge dì zhǐ”, which means “Please take me to this address.”  When cab drivers hear you speak Chinese, they are less likely to rip you off.

Speaking of cab drivers, if you are traveling outside of Beijing, Shanghai, or other big tourist friendly cities, be prepared with this phrase…

Please turn the meter on – 请打表 – qǐng dǎ biǎo : This phrase has proven to be useful on many occassions here for me, as drivers in smaller cities tend to try to take advantage of oblivious 老外.

ASKING DIRECTIONS

Where is ____?  – ____ 在哪里 – ____ zài nǎ lǐ : In Chinese, you put the name of the place first, and then ask “at where?”.

How do I get to ____? – _____ 怎么去 – ____ zěn me qù : This goes along with asking for directions, and can be helpful in determining whether to walk, run, bike, swim, or taxi it to your desired destination.

IN A RESTAURANT

What do you recommend? – 你推荐什么菜 – nǐ tuī jiàn shén me cài : If you can’t read the menu, use this as your go-to phrase.  Sometimes you’ll end up with something you love, and sometimes you’ll end up with something really funky.  If you’re in China and you can’t really speak Chinese, you are just going to have to deal with this.  Don’t be a lame foreigner and eat Mc Donald’s every day…

What specialties do you have? – 你们有什么特色菜 – nǐ men yǒu shén me tè sè cài : If you are OK with eating just about everything (like I am), just utter this phrase and take what you are given.  In my experience, the specialty dishes in local restaurants are usually amazing.  Of course, if you are a pickier eater, you may need to equip yourself with a few more phrases, such as…

I don’t eat meat – 我不吃肉 – wǒ bù chī ròu : I hang out with a lot of vegetarian hippies at home, so I think this one is useful as well.  If you tell this to your waiter, they will understand and will bring you only veggie dishes.

I like/don’t like spicy food – 我喜欢吃辣/我不喜欢吃辣 : wǒ xǐ huan chī là/wǒ bù xǐh uan chī là – As a lot of Chinese food is really spicy, this is pretty important.  If you can’t take the heat, well, you don’t need to get out of the kitchen… Just say this and they will cool it down a bit for you.

After one week in Korea, these are the phrases I wish I knew how to say in Korean.  Memorize them in Chinese, and you won’t have the same problem when you pay a visit to the Middle Country.

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The Silk Road Pt. 7: Our Final Destination, Xi’an (西安)

Posted by Steve

Well after 2,500 miles, two plane rides, three train rides, and at least a dozen bus trips from hell, we have finally made it to the terminus of the Silk Road: Xi’an. 西安 ( ān) is a one of China’s oldest cities (formerly known as Chang’an) and has been a cultural and historical landmark throughout China’s history. At various time, this walled city of Shanxi Province (山西 [shān ])  functioned as the capital city of China, and the home of the first imperial families.

For millennium all roads have led to and through Xi’an, the most prominent of which being the Silk Road, which terminates just inside the massive walled city. For travelers completing their daunting journey across the Gobi desert, Xi’an stood as a beacon of civilization, rewarding their trek with unimaginable silks, spices, goods, and technologies.

西安 ( ān) translates as “western peace”–a fitting name for a western capital. But prior to being called Xi’an the massive walled city was called Chang’an or 长安  (Cháng ān) which means “perpetual peace”. However, years of clan fighting and warlord campaigns throughout the area made the concept of “perpetual peace” seem ill-fitting so the name changed over the years. Yet as Xi’an became more involved in the Silk Road and trade, its moniker as a pathway to the west soon became common place first calling it 安西 but then reversing the order to 西安 for whatever reason. Maybe because the name sounded so similar to a Buddhist concept of the afterlife known as the “western paradise”. Go figure.

When you think Xi’an you usually think Terra Cotta Warriors or 兵马俑 (bīngmǎyǒng). These life-like, clay figures of Chinese warriors were created in the first imperial dynasty of China, the Qin or 秦朝 (Qín cháo). During that time, a crazy or “misunderstood”  first emperor named Qin Shi Huang (秦始皇), which to clear up any confusion among his subordinates means “first emperor”, decided that he needed an army of thousands of life sized and intricately carved clay soldiers, horses and warriors to be buried with him as protection to help fight his enemies in the afterlife. Paranoid much? Suffice it to say, he wasn’t a very well liked emperor, and his tomb, along with his standing army of clay men, were ransacked, buried and forgotten until 1974.

For more, check out this National Geographic piece on the Terra Cotta Warriors:

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Xi’an is also home to the largest wall I have ever seen which literally surrounds the entire city. This “city wall” or 城墙 [chéng qiáng]was reconstructed during the 14th Century and stood solidly thereafter when facing invading armies (not to mention those “goddamn mongolians”. Oh, South Park!). From the outside, Xi’an looks like a medieval fortress, yet the interior hides a thriving metropolis of ancient and modern architecture.

Even on a rainy day, wandering around the wall is a worthwhile endeavor–albeit very slippery. I decided to do a lap around the city via bicycle-cart with the help of my chauffeur or 司机 ( ). As we circled the city, various displays of architecture (from 7 different dynasties!) grabbed my attention, including the famous Bell Tower of Xi’an located smack dab in the middle of the city along with the ancient (over 1000 years old) Wild Goose Pagoda near the outskirts.

The rain didn’t let up, and after thoroughly soaking myself and my driver, I decided to call it quits and seek shelter indoors. Luckily the rumble in my stomach or 肚子 ( zi) convinced me to head straight for the nearest packed restaurant. Boy, was I in for a treat.

Food-wise, Xi’an is famous for its dumplings or 饺子 (jiǎo zi), which are eaten in massive banquets with almost every kind of filling you could imagine. If you love dumplings as much as I do, Xi’an is your food Mecca. They have traditional steamed dumplings, boiled ones, juice filled ones, fried ones, even dumplings on a stick! If you are in Xi’an, you MUST partake in a dumpling banquet, it only to fully understand the meaning of 吃包了 (chī bāo le)–”absolutely stuffed”.

After snacking on some dumplings, I took a stroll down “food alley” seeing what else Xi’an had to offer. Because of Xi’an’s location along the Silk Road, Muslim and Central Asian culinary styles have influenced the food, providing some of the best lamb and noodle dishes I’ve ever tasted. Here Muslim and Han styles of food have been mixing and evolving for centuries, benefiting the stomach of every person who steps inside the walled city. For an in-depth look at the “must eat” famous foods of Xi’an check out this article.

As for the nightlife in Xi’an? It is insane. Our last night in Xi’an before flying down to Shanghai was spent at a night club with trampoline like floors. I wish I had my camera on me for this, but imagine close to 200 people bouncing up and down in waves to techno-trance music while beer constantly rains down on you from swinging bottles. People in Xi’an really know how to party. As so often happens when a group of 老外 descend upon a trendy Chinese bar, we instantly were greeted as guests of honor and didn’t pay a penny (or mao if you will) as we bounced the night away. Leaving this city would be bitter-sweet.

Our Journey Comes to an End

Civilization awaits...after this ten hour train ride.

The next morning the soreness in our legs dulled the aching in our heads as we packed our bags and headed to the train station. Following these two world-wind weeks of travel, exhaustion had finally gotten to us as we collapsed into our hard sleeper beds. After this epic Silk Road journey, the prospect of going back to Shanghai and then later Beijing wasn’t a thrilling one. Something about western China struck a chord with me. I loved the food. The people were incredibly friendly and personable.And then there is this culture that very few people around the globe (not to mention within China) know about that has existed for thousands of years. The Silk Road acted as a melting pot of Asia and influenced globalization in huge way.

I learned a great deal on this Silk Road trip, namely that yaak is a delicious alternative for cow meat (but not a great substitute for milk or any kind of dairy product), Yurts are not as inviting as they would seem and of course, never to urinate on the premisses of the ancient Great Wall (thats only for national citizens). Seriously though, I did get a glimpse into a culture that has been somewhat subjugated by the China, and doesn’t really feel a part of this “middle kingdom”.

Walking the same paths that countless merchants, pilgrims and travelers did gave greater insight and depth into the diversity of such a large nation as China. Sure, our methods of travel were more advanced, and our living conditions were much more hospitable (aside from the yurt experience) than what Silk Road travelers faced back in the day, but at least we got a glimpse of the lifestyles and customs of this large and isolated region of western China. While skyscrapers, bright lights, neon lights, and modernity awaited us in Shanghai, here along the Silk Road, development was still a work in progress. Maybe as China pushes further inland in with infrastructure policies (highways, train lines and construction developments), the Silk Road will once again regain some of its status vector for communication, trade and advancement. Until then, the Silk Road will stand as a historical icon–a reminder of the past and all its glory.

Thanks for riding along with me on this Silk Road journey. 谢谢你们!

Check out the gallery below:

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The Silk Road Pt. 6: Jiāyùguān Pass (嘉峪关)

Posted by Steve

While traveling through Gansu Province, we came across the Jiayu Pass or 嘉峪关 (Jiāyùguān), the largest and most intact section of the western Great Wall of China. The pass, runs through central Gansu acting as a corridor for people traveling between Dunhuang and Lanzhou. In ancient times, this pass was a stronghold for the Han Chinese, resulting in one of the most fortified sections of the Great Wall. Remnants of the ancient Great Wall are still in place, but have been warn down, due mainly to lack of up-keep, conflict and erosion from the desert winds.

The 嘉峪关乡 (Jiāyùguānxiāng) castle stands outside modern day Jiayuguan City (嘉峪关市 [Jiāyùguānshi]) by the ancient Great Wall. While much of the castle has been rebuilt to accommodate tourists, the grounds are still fun to wander around in. Here, Han Culture dominates, which is evident from the architecture, clothing, food and people that live in this area.

At the Fort, tourists can come to marvel at the elaborate defensive perimeter system from which thousands of archers would ensnare their victims within an outer courtyard, and reign down arrows on unsuspecting invaders. You can also enjoy watching traditional opera, plays and even try your luck dressing up as a 12th century “knight”.

There isn’t much else to do outside of the castle and Great Wall remnants, other than relax by the East Lake (东湖) and enjoy some food and drink. Unlike Dunhuang, Xiahe, Urumqi and Kashgar, Jiayuguan is distinctly Chinese, and stands as a beacon of Hanliness in an area surrounded by Turkic Muslims, Mongolians and Tibetans.

That being said, there are a large amount of ethnically muslim Han Chinese here (called the Huímín or 回民–literally “return folk”. While Han Chinese in ethnicity, they do disassociate themselves from regular Chinese in a few ways: the men wear little white hats, the women wear white shawls, they don’t drink alcohol and of course, and they don’t eat pork or 猪肉, arguably Chinese peoples’ favorite meat. Let me just say it was heavenly to have some 猪肉白菜饺子 (pork and cabbage dumplings) after weeks of only lamb or yak. Mmmmm…非常好吃! *Drooling*

Jiayuguan felt like home away from home, which is strange to say as a foreigner in China. This was clearly the point where, historically, China said, “this is the front door to our kingdom, this is the beginning of western China”. While Kashgar, Dunhuang and Urumqi are frontier cities, the Jiayuguan Pass became the cutoff point between civilized China and the wild west. Your last bastion of Chinese culture, customs and rule of law ends after this wall:

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I wonder if maybe history is repeating itself in the Gansu-Xinjiang provinces. Unlike most eastern and southern provinces of China, these two western areas, filled with minorities, seem to still be at the “frontier” stages of their development–even after thousands of years. Once you move through the Jiayuguan pass, you’re moving from what is distinctly China and what is still a project in the works.  As we finish our last stage of our Silk Road journey (terminating in Xi’an), it’s all CHINA-China from here on out.

Check out the gallery below:

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Yi Xian Camping Music Festival (易县露营音乐节) Part 2 – We are Rockstars (我们是摇滚明星)

Posted by sasha

When we last saw them, our 老外 heroes had finally arrived at their desired destination – the Yi Xian Camping Music Festival.  Despite the fact that they had just endured a lengthy, exhausting, frustrating journey, they were in high spirits and were ready to experience their first ever Chinese music festival.  We now find our heroes standing outside of the festival entrance, camping gear in hand, ready to rock the F out.

Can you understand this map?

Being accustomed to American music festivals, where cars line up to go through extensive security checks, it was nice to casually stroll through the entrance.  Come to think of it, there wasn’t even really a clearly marked entrance (入口 – rù kǒu) to this festival.  There wasn’t any sign of security waiting to check our bags, and there wasn’t anyone telling us where to buy tickets (买票 – mǎi  piào) or where to set up camp.  For a minute there, we wondered if there was a music festival going on at all.

Our luxurious accomodations.

As a result of our nearly day long journey to get there, we were too tired (太累了 – tài lèi le) to worry about the details, and were more concerned with finding a place to set up camp (设立营 – shè lì yíng).  After walking around for a few minutes, we found a dirt lot that already had a few tents set up.  A few people were milling around either setting up or tearing down tents, so we went ahead and put up our tents.  While I would have preferred a grassy area, I was in far too much of a zombie-like state to care.  Luckily, it was very easy (很容易 – hěn róng yì) to get our tents up, and within a matter of minutes, I was sound asleep.

If only they had these at Bonnaroo...

After a well deserved nap, we awoke to explore our surroundings.  Our dirt lot had what looked like some sort of high ropes course straight out of a summer camp.  Up the road a bit, there were some dune-buggie like race cars. Around the corner, there was a little shop selling and renting military apparel and fake guns.  Again, we questioned whether or not we were really at a music festival, even though there were signs everywhere telling us that we were. Finally, we figured out where to buy tickets.  At 80 RMB, or about $12 for the day, the cheap tickets were a reminder that music festivals are still very new to China.

Camp set up and tickets in hand, it was time to eat lunch (吃午饭 – chī wǔ fàn).  As there was so much confusion involved in finding the festival, it was only fitting that there would be confusion in finding a place to eat.  Eventually, we were guided into the cafeteria where a buffet (自助餐 – zì zhù cān) awaited.  The best part about lunch was being able to stock up on drinking water (矿泉水 – kuàng quán shuǐ) and fruit (水果 – shuǐ guǒ), seeing as how we brought nothing to eat or drink with us.

After lunch, we headed into the concert area to scope it out.  On our way in, a small army of volunteers (志愿者 – zhì yuàn zhě) greeted us and equipped us with wristbands.  They were mostly teenagers, and it was quite obvious they were more than excited to be a part of the festival.  Here is one area where Chinese festivals are very similar to American festivals – a large portion of the staff are young workers who are content with a free ticket as payment.

The festival's logo - a dancing tent.

With only one stage (舞台 – wǔ tái) inside the concert area, there wasn’t a whole lot to see.  While the lack of options was a bit disappointing, I was happy to not have to spend the weekend running back and forth between stages, as is necessary at large American festivals.

Shortly thereafter, the first band of the day hit the stage.  The first band was a Chinese heavy metal (重金属 – zhòng jīn shǔ) band, as were most of the acts for the rest of the weekend.  While the older fans were head-banging along with the rocking guitar solos, the youngsters in attendance could be seen cupping their ears in an attempt to block the excessively loud music.

Enough security?

From the moment we arrived, it was clear we were three of only a selective few 老外 in attendance.  With my silly hat (帽子 – mào zi) and our gaudy behavior, I guess we came across as rock stars (摇滚明星 – yáo gǔn míng xīng), because every other person we met wanted to pose for a photo with us.  At first, it was kind of cute and entertaining, but after about 50 photos, it got to be quite annoying.  Being accustomed to life in Beijing – where foreigners are a common sight – we weren’t so used to being celebrities, but we took it in stride.  Our German friends, however, were not so fond of the local paparazzi, so they wrote up a sign that read, “Want a photo? Give us beer” (要照片,给我们啤酒 – yào zhào piàn, gěi wǒ men pí jiǔ).  The sign actually worked, and the next 1o or 20 photos we had to take came with a handful of free beers.  Needless to say, the mass amounts of free beer helped to make the rest of the day more enjoyable…

I know... our hats are awesome.

For the rest of the festival, we enjoyed the Chinese heavy metal bands mixed in with the handful of foreign bands, and questioned the choice of Norah Jones as the house music.  How her soulful, easy-listening songs accompany satin worshiping death metal is beyond me, but apparently it made sense to someone…

This kid was hilarious.

As the day turned into night, we got more and more used to the attention we were

Future Phishheads.

getting from the locals.  Some young girls even told me it was their first time (第一次 – dì yī cì) seeing foreigners in person, and they spent the remainder of the night following us around, holding Rachel’s hand, and asking us questions while giggling.  While doing my best to play translator between the girls and Rachel, a young boy showed up, obviously anxious to make friends with the 外国人 as well.  Despite the fact that we were all incredibly worn out and ready to fall asleep, we did our best to keep our eyes open for pictures while I did my best to play translator between our young Chinese friends and my newbie American friends.  Even though I was more than ready to fall asleep, I managed to keep my head up in an effort to facilitate the rare multi-cultural exchange that we had going on at the moment.

This sign basically says "Chinese bands and foreign bands make us high today."

After the music had stopped for the evening, we found ourselves hanging around the campsite of some local Chinese folks.  Instead of pointing at us or staring awkwardly, they kindly invited us over for some late night snacks and drinking.  We had a great time exchanging broken Chinese for broken English, and that night proved that language barriers can’t keep you from making friends.

When the festival came to a close, we were lucky enough to get put on the band bus back to Beijing.  After our incredibly difficult and expensive journey to the festival, it only seemed fitting that we were offered a completely free (of cost and trouble) ride back to the city.  I guess Karma really does exist in China.

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The Silk Road, Pt. 5: Xià hé (夏河)

Posted by Steve

After waking up in a sand filled bed, dehydrated and sunburnt, I figured my time spent in Dunhuang was at an end. In order reach our terminus at Xian via the Silk Road, we still had to traverse almost the entire length of Gansu province (甘肃), which stretches nearly 1500 km from Mongolia to the Tibeten Plateau, before. Dunhuang is at the very tip of northwestern Gansu. Our destination, Xia He, was at the very southeastern tip. A long train ride was ahead of us. Luckily we had a deck of cards, yak ramen and enough bottles of 白酒 and 啤酒 to 干杯 our way from one end of Gansu to the other, all within a night. When the sun set aboard the train, we were barreling across the Gobi desert. Yet when we awoke, we found ourselves staring out into temperate terrain of grasslands, vegetation and rivers bathed in green and golden hues. The transformation was astounding causing me to ask myself, “Are we even still in Gansu province?”

Xia He, or 夏河 (Xià ), translates as “summer river” a title that is instantly noticeable after our stay in Dunhuang. Like the rest of Gansu, Xia He is at a high elevation (over a mile above sea level) and is situated on the fringes of the Tibetan Plateau. There are rolling hills as far as the eye can see with a few craggy peaks in the far background. The weather is cool and damp during the day and absolutely frigid at night. The area, which lies in the direct intersection of Chinese, Tibetan and Mongolian cultures, has exchanged rule for thousands of years, but has always remained a true to its Tibetan roots.

Xia He's own "High Plains Drifter".

Upon arrival, we ventured out into the grasslands, and stumbled upon a small farm village with some friendly faces. I was instantly offered yak yogurt (a delicacy there) and more yak milk-liquor, and then was shown around the ranch by a wiry little guy with a rifle. He showed me his land, his gorgeous dogs (whom he said were pure breeds worth 10,000 kuai) and fired a few rounds off into the distance, explaining that in this pseudo-autonomous region, hunters and herdsmen can fire guns “just like Americans”.

Upon leaving the ranch, we visited a youth monastery/school in town, drawing the attention of hundreds of  high schoolers who had never seen 老外s in person. Yet soon their awe was traded for a pride, as they challenged us to a game of basketball on their home court. It was Team USA vs. 中国队 (Team China), and believe me, no one was yelling 加油 (the english equivalent of “let’s go”) for the away team. While we had them beat on the fundamentals, we soon learned their plan: use the elevation to their advantage by running back and forth, to wind the unconditioned Americans. It felt like sprint sets on top of Everest. By the end of the game, everyone was laughing through deep breaths of air.

好球!

After our victory (or loss depending upon who you asked) our competition took us out for a meal of delicious yak (as if there is any other kind of meat?) dumplings, keeping up banter about the NBA and American TV. They informed us that they were devote Buddhists who had moved to this boarding school in Xia He to become monks. Many were from Tibet and explained that historically, this part of China was under Tibetan control up until the 15th and 16th centuries when Tibet was a strong and unified nation. That’s why so many customs pervade amidst a Han Chinese province.

Tibetan Buddhist customs and beliefs, like Islam, spread along the Silk Road from Dunhuang and neighboring Tibet, Nepal and India. Buddism or 佛教 ( jiào), is evident everywhere here in Xia He and so are the Xia He monks, clad in red robes and yellow, what can best be described as “cockatoo hats”. This is because the Labrang Monastery or 拉卜楞寺  (lābǔlèng sì), one of six great Geluk (Yellow Hat aka, “cockatoo hats”) schools of Tibetan Buddhism lies within Xia He borders. Students, scholars and converts of Tibetan Buddhism all flock to this notable monastic university much in the same way divinity students flock to universities.

Within the town, monks of all ages roam the streets, chatting on cell phones, goofing around with friends and even visiting the internet cafe. In fact, when I went inside a local 网吧 (wǎng ba) to check my email, I found a slew of tween monks, in full garb, playing Counter Strike, while yelling obscenities at one another and puffing on cigarettes. Maybe not what Buddha was going for when he spoke of “ridding oneself of material affects”. Oh well, I’m sure the portly fellow doesn’t have strong feelings on this issue either way. Everything is as is should be…

A row of Tibetan prayer wheels.

After touring the Monastery we made our way to the long line of  prayer wheels that surround the temple. In meditation and the reciting of monastic prayers, monks, Buddhists and anyone who’s down on their luck or needs a bit of fortune coming their way circumabulate the seemingly miles of prayer wheels that surround an inner stupa. Tibetan Buddhism is similar to Mahayana sects but has but also includes the four marks of existence. It is extremely esoteric, and relies heavily on the following of a mandala, which is a maze like prayer “road map”  that helps the monk focus on reaching englightenment (similar to koans). Yet here in Xia He, scholars and monks “navigate” a different mandala–the extensive grounds of the monastery–all the while reciting prayers and spinning wheels.

Upon doing a little prayer-walking of my own, I noticed just how many people have frequented this location, noticing how warn down and polished the wood, stone and wheels were. While traffic mainly consisted of yellow hat monks and orange clad youngsters, a good deal of local residents from the neighboring town were getting their exercise in, stopping only–to stare wide eyed at the group of foreigners spinning their sacred wheels.

You know the economy is in bad shape when you see this.

Additionally, I noticed quite a few men dressed in business suits and talking on their cell phones–all the while spinning wheel after wheel. Unlike the monks and locals, these 商人 (shāng rén) moved with purpose, passing slower worshippers while reaching around them so as to not skip spinning a single wheel. Tough day in the stock markets, 朋友?

Before...

Before....

...and after.

After getting a good amount of walking in this high altitude climate, we made our way to the center courtyard of the temple, where a esoteric display, rarely seen anywhere else was about to begin. What started with just a lone monk sitting on the courtyard steps, chanting to himself, soon became two, then three, then ten, and soon, before we knew it, closer to one hundred, all chiming in with their fellow monks. The courtyard echoed and shook, bells began ringing and doors to the main temple opened. Then while still in chant, the monks formed into a snaking line and entered the temple and were gone.

See the gallery below for more photos:

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Temple Hopping in Beijing (雍和宮, 孔庙)

Posted by sasha

Before I get to my latest video post, I wanted to make a comment about how I’ve been introducing vocabulary in my posts.  As I’m sure some of you have noticed, I recently changed the way I do this.  From now on, I will highlight an English word, phrase, or sentence in bold, and then include the Chinese characters and pinyin in parentheses.  I made this switch after getting feedback from some readers who said posts were hard to follow when I wrote the Chinese first.  I think this new method will make my posts easier to read through, while still conveniently introducing new words in Chinese.

For today’s video, join me for a day trip to two of Beijing’s most famous temples – 雍和宮 (Lama Temple) and 孔庙 (Confucius Temple).

Hundreds of years ago, the Lama Temple was an Imperial Palace. Today, it is a popular tourist attraction and a lamasery for Tibetan and Mongolian monks.

The Confucius Temple honors China’s most famous scholar, 孔子 (Confucius). Built in 1302, people have come here to pay homage to the master scholar for hundreds of years. Here you can learn a great deal about Confucius and how his teachings have influenced people in the past, and continue to influence our lives today.

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雍和宮
Yōnghé gōng
Lama Temple
Palace of Peace and Harmony

藏传佛教
Zàng chuán fójiào
Tibetan Buddhism

燃香
Rán xiāng
burn incense



Buddha

如果你给佛钱,你的钱将增长
Rúguǒ nǐ gěi fú qián, nǐ de qián jiāng zēngzhǎng
If you give budda money, your money will grow

万福阁
Wànfú gé
Pavilion of Ten Thousand Happiness

北京孔庙
Běijīng kǒngmiào
Beijing Confucius Temple

孔子
Kǒng zǐ
Confucius (Master Kong)

孔丘
Kǒng qiū
his given name

除奸柏
Chú jiān bǎi
touch evil cypress (the famous tree in the temple)

家谱
Jiā pǔ
family tree

叔梁紇
Shū liáng hé
his father

顏徵在
Yán zhēng zài
his mother

夫子洞
Fū zǐ dòng
scholar cave (where it is believed Confucius was born)

小年
Xiǎo nián
youth

入学
rù xué
starting school

孔子三十而立
Kǒngzǐ sān shí érlì
“At age thirty, I stood firm” – this is a famous quote from Confucius

论语
Lún yǔ
The Analects of Confucius

天下 – Tiānxià – all under Heaven

马可波罗
Mǎ kě bō luó
Marco Polo

意大利
Yì dà lì
Italy

伏尔泰
Fú ěr tài
Voltaire

法国
Fà guó
France

美国孔子书院
Měi guó kǒng zǐ shū yuàn
USA Confucius college/academy

从华盛顿到旧金山
Cóng huá shèng dùn dào jiù jīn shān
from Washington to San Francisco

历史上最有影响的一百人
Lì shǐ shàng zuì yǒu yǐng xiǎng de yī bǎi rén
History’s most influential 100 people

知错能改,善莫大焉
Zhī cuò néng gǎi, shànmòdàyān
To know your faults and be able to change is the greatest virtue.

学而不思则罔,思而不学则殆。
Xué ér bù sī zé wǎng, sī ér bù xué zé dài.
To study and not think is a waste. To think and not study is dangerous.

己所不欲,勿施於人。
Jǐ suǒ bù yù, wù shī yú rén.
What you do not wish for yourself, do not do to others.

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