Posts in May 2008

The Chatty Beijing Taxi Driver

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It’s 6:30am when Wang Zhifeng steps out of his 14th floor 1200 RMB/month apartment in the Haidian district , waving goodbye to his wife as he closes the door behind him and lighting up a Double Happiness cigarette on the way to the elevator, elbowing-grabbing his fruit jar of green tea to do so. Ling, the elevator lady, is already at her chair in the elevator, hard at work knitting a new pair of socks for her niece, the same position she’ll occupy for the next 12 hours pushing the buttons to take people up and down. Even though they’ve lived in the building for years, they exchange no pleasantries, as is their custom, and Wang Zhifeng smokes his cigarette the whole way down. The lights in the hallway still aren’t working and the paint is peeling off the ceiling, but it’s home, and Wang Zhifeng steps out into the daylight and heads to his cab, a shiny new Volkswagen that he rents from one of the many taxi companies in Beijing and splits in 12 hours shifts with his next door neighbor. It’s not cloudy, but there’s a haze of pollution and it’s going to be another long day in Beijing traffic. Nestling his tea jar into the space beside the passenger seat with the emergency brake, he drives for a couple minutes to the end of the street with a stop by the jianbing (an oniony egg crepe around a crunchy fried dough) stand for a quick breakfast. For the next 3 hours, he tackles stop and go traffic driving a businessman to work in Dongdan, an elderly couple to Beijing’s West Train Station, and several minutes just driving around looking for the next fare: Me.
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The Chinese Classroom

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At first glance, it’s the picture of a certain ideal: a teacher standing at the head of a classroom with a piece of chalk in one hand, the students listening attentively and hanging on the teacher’s every word.  The students are quiet and reasonably well behaved, repeat like a chorus what the teacher asks them to repeat, and are otherwise silent while the teacher lectures. They ask no questions, and the teacher infrequently asks them to answer questions individually. More frequently, the class answers en mass. This is the picture of a typical Chinese classroom. It is has been this way for generations and the role of the teacher in China is at the heart of it.
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Surviving the Banquet

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“Sooner or later everyone sits down to a banquet of consequences.”
- Robert Louis Stevenson

The art of the business deal here in China goes one step further than the boardroom, and it’s in the arena of the banquet hall that many a deal can be made or unmade. A banquet is a way of bestowing respect on a visiting business partner, and should be an expected part of the business experience in China. Indeed, the Chinese put a great deal of importance on the building of relationships, a term that is best understood through the catchall term guanxi, and it is during the banquet that guanxi is established. In fact, it may be that the real decision makers of a Chinese firm will only appear during one of these events to judge the steel of their potential business partners, to see if their partners are compatible on a personal level. Beware, though, because the Chinese banquet is often a long, arduous undertaking involving a great deal of food which may not be familiar to the Western palate, a great deal of toasting with baijiu, just about the closest thing to real firewater out there, and what one might assume to be a friendly after work dinner party can quickly become what looks like ritualized hazing. Here are a few pointers on what to expect, mastering the etiquette, and how to get through a banquet anywhere in the Middle Kingdom, from Harbin to Guangzhou.

1. The business card, or mingxingpian:
Chances are you’re going to meet people who you haven’t met before the banquet truly begins. Be prepared with your business cards, and don’t make the mistake of giving it to the recipient one handed or off the cuff. Chinese present their cards the way they would present themselves: with respect and humility. Use both hands to present your business card, and the recipient will receive it in the same way. Give and receive with a ni hao and a xie xie, respectively.

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The Earthquake

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Letter Home, May 12, 6:44pm

Just wanted to let you know all is well here in Beijing. Of course, why wouldn’t it be? Well, I was sitting here this afternoon on my couch on the 18th floor when I started to feel like maybe I was a little drunk. Or dizzy. Or dreaming. You see, the whole building was SWAYING. I stood up and hoped the sensation would pass, but it didn’t, and the lights were clinking together and the doors were swinging back and forth and the laundry hanging by the window was dancing and that’s when it occurred to me that what we had here was an earthquake. I ran to tell Oscar, my Spanish roommate, in his room that it was an earthquake and I was fleeing the premises. He was sitting there watching something or other on his computer and laughing at the screen and was generally oblivious, as he’d thought that the sensation was just shifting in his chair. I think that my wild-eyed panic scared him into action, but I can’t be sure, because I was out the door and running into the hall so fast, all I had time for was to grab my wallet, keys, and let’s not forget the cigarettes. As I hightailed it out of there, I practically collided with a Mexican guy from our floor who was running to our place to find out what was happening. So I fled the building, taking out 18 flights of stairs in about 1 minute flat. Came barreling out the front door of my apartment building into a scene of pure and utter… normalcy. There was nobody out there. I thought I’d been dreaming, but Oscar and the Mexican guy followed about 1 minute later, and it wasn’t until five minutes afterwards that others trickled out. Not many, mind you, just a few who had places on the top floors. Mostly foreigners too, people from places that had some experience with shifting earth. Central Asians, Mexicans. People on the lower floors hadn’t felt anything and didn’t come out. It was bizarre and I felt like a bit of a coward, but after all, nobody ever died from being a coward. I vote with my survival instinct. I went back inside about 20 minutes later, got a call from my Chinese friend out in Qinghai province who said they’d had the earthquake out there as well. Apparently the epicenter was out in the Chengdu area of Sichuan, and there’s something like 100 people dead with the toll supposed to go quite a bit higher. Magnitude 7.8 out there. Something like 3.9 here. I’ll check out the news tonight and report back. But wow, it was mighty scary.

The Reality

The New China News Agency News Agency (Xinhua), 24 hours after writing the above letter, is reporting that the quake in Sichuan was much, much more devastating than I had originally guessed. While I smile about how I hightail it out of a highrise to save my own skin, there’s really nothing funny about what’s happened in the West. My little tremor here in Beijing was nothing compared to the magnitude of the destruction and loss of life in Sichuan province. Estimates are of 12,000 dead with close to another 20,000 people missing in Mianyang City and Mianzhu village, in the county of Wenchuan at the earthquakes epicenter. The Chinese authorities are working through the night and rain to reach survivors, and have welcomed foreign aid. It’s been a rough year for China so far.

 

Do You Have the Tone, Please?

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One of the first challenges for the Western speaker of Chinese to overcome in learning to speak Mandarin Chinese is the introduction of tones to a language. In English, a rising or falling tone does little other than indicate emphasis: The whiny “What do you waaant?” as opposed to “What do you want!?” Not so in Chinese. Differentiating between tones is the difference between knowing, for example, whether a person is asking the whereabouts of your mother, your hemp, or your horse. Misunderstand one sentence and you suddenly find yourself in a very confusing situation, especially since most conversations consist of much more than one lingering sentence. Picture the situation:

Xiao Zhang (speaking Chinese of course):
“Do you know where I can rent a horse? I’d like to take a horse along the Great Wall. Want to come along?”

You:
“Um. Run that by me one more time?”

While in practice, context makes a huge difference and it becomes relatively easy to know that Xiao Zhang doesn’t want to rent a mother to take up to the Great Wall, not hearing or saying the correct tone more often than not just leads to confusion. To avoid this awkward situation, here’s a brief primer for how to pronounce the tones in Mandarin Chinese.
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